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Full frame swap?

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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Default Full frame swap?

So I'm planning quite an ambitious project. I have a 95 extended cab I just bought for $1k but the frame and body is toast. The motor (351) and trans are mint as is the interior, the guy I bought it from (original owner) said nobody has ever even sat in the backseat besides his little dog. The truck has a ton of new parts along with a class 3 hitch and detroit limited slip in the rear but like I said the body and frame are toast. I just traded into a running 93 extended cab with a much better body and mint frame (the rear leaf spring hangers and shock mounts are brand new). So my plan is to swap interiors, frames, and drivetrains. Has anyone done this? Who wants to come to east WI and help me? haha....... I'll get some pictures of the both of them up soon.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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I would swap the engine/trans into the good frame. Then put the good interior and any parts you want to swap out.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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^^ This. Why swap more than is needed. Just take the interior out and put in the other truck. Shouldn't have to swap cabs if everything but the powertrain and interior are what you're wanting in the other truck. Pulling a motor and trans is relatively straight forward. And interior doesn't take that much to do.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 04:10 PM
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Yea I plan on swapping complete interiors and complete drivetrain and the rear axle. But I want the rear window out of the 95 because it is the good slider. I'm also wondering about the VINs, if I swap the dash what else do I need to swap?
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 04:15 PM
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Here's the rusted one.

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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by militarybuilt
Yea I plan on swapping complete interiors and complete drivetrain and the rear axle. But I want the rear window out of the 95 because it is the good slider. I'm also wondering about the VINs, if I swap the dash what else do I need to swap?
Pull both windows out and pay a guy to install the slider. That wont be expensive.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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I have the sliding rear on mine and honestly I wish it was a solid window, they are ok if you have a topper or you cruise gravel drinking beer and want to save your cans. For general purposes though they are useless, just having both windows down circulates more than enough air to cool the cab on a hot day, after a while the side pieces will pull out of the molding from opening and closing the sliders. That's just my opinion, some may find it useful but for me it's really just an inconvenience.

Btw, the "rusted one" looks to be in fairly decent shape, before you go all grease monkey you may want to think things over, right now you have two decent trucks, would you rather have one better than average and one junked or the two decent trucks that run.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Just take the good parts off the rusty one and scrap it. Build up the good one and register it properly. The vin doesn't transfer with the dash it's riveted to the metal of the cab and the door post sticker is pretty stuck on there. Transferring those 2 pieces is a totally illegal thing to do, you can definitely be charged for it (fraud) which doesnt really seem worth the effort.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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The title always follow the cab. That's why they do that with the VIN's.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 11:13 PM
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I'll get some better pictures of the rusty one....it's bad. I will end up swapping things all over and I think the worse of the two will end up as a camp truck or will end up parted out and the rest will get scrapped, even though I hate to do that to a truck. I just wish I had a heated shop to do this over the winter, the winter up here in WI was terrible last year and is supposed to suck this year as well.
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