Have been up till now. Now running 10w30.

 

What can I do to prevent dry starts...a little money would be worth spending.

 

So it's just cheap filters doing it? I've been using cheap Quaker state filters and they were good until the last change, seems they reduced the overall size by almost half. So for this change i bought a $15 Mobil 1 filter with some 10w30 and some Lucas oil stuff to see if it will quiet down.

 

Maybe I need the Lucas stuff...what stuff exactly am Ilookkng for? Can't seem to find it around here but will order it online.

 

I've been using Wix up till this change, now using the Bosch Distance Plus.

 

http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/engi...-additives.asp

The heavy duty oil stabilizer is the one I have, the second one down. I had good luck with Lucas oil tranny saver when I screwed up my e4od so I thought I'd give this stuff a try, along with my auto teacher strongly advised adding a bit every oil change.

 

for the hot summer I run 20w50 in mine and in the winter 10w40 plus 1 bottle of Lucas Engine lube and 1 bottle of ZDDP....

on the factory 5w30 oil and nothing and a cheap filter mine has it pretty bad...

the reason for the dry start is as I mentioned. The oil is pulled out of the engine due to the slight vacuum of the oil being pulled down the pick up tube and back to the pan...On cheap oil filters with a bad drain back valve I've seen it empty the oil filter after a few minutes.

On these motors it oils the top end first before the lower bearings so any oil drain back causes the bearing to be dry under starting condition...

yes it does wear the mains and rod but it takes a while

 

What Lucas ZDDP Additive do you use? You said you use a small bottle, can you tell me exactly what that is? Have you ever used ZDDPlus? I see it around online, but I cant find any small bottles of the lucas you are talkng about, unless by small you are talking about the 16oz bottles, and which one exactly am I looking for? And if it is 16oz, do I substitute half a quart of oil with this?
Also, what else could be done? You mentioned a check valve, or an accumulator. Any info or link on something like this? How do these go on etc?? Every time I start my truck and hear that knock, I know it has to be wearing things. If I can do somethign short of tearing the engine apart to fix this, or at least drastically slow it down, I would do it. I was so hoping that a new filter and the Rislone that I added with ZDDP would fix the problem, but doesnt seem to have done anything so far. Perhaps I need to use the Lucas, dont know why, but maybe something is different. Do you think going to a thicker oil may help? Wouldnt 10w30 flow through the engine quicker and get to the parts sooner? I am frustrated at this point. I wasnt aware that something was taken out of oil that our engines need and I want to slow down any additional wear as much as possible. How does this accumulator you mentioned work, mount, install etc... and where can I find one, or the check valve.. something like that sounds like the way to go as the filter didnt seem to help me. You seem knowledgeable on this subject, so I apologize if I am seeming pushy, just trying to save my engine if possible and do something short of a complete teardown. Even removing the pan sounds like a pain. I have a shop, but no hoist (yet) I know there is no magical fix in a bottle, Not sure what to do, if anything can really be done, but willing to try. I figured anything more than 10w30 may be too thick, but perhaps I am wrong. Thank you for all your help!!

 

Went shopping...should I use lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer, or lucas break in oil additive? The break in additive says zinc right on it.

 

Stabilizer and synthetic oil will slow down wear. Not reverse it. An anti-drain back valve will prevent dry starts. Knock is common with high mileage bearing wear and unless severe is no cause for alarm