Topic Sponsor
1987 - 1996 F150 Still running strong! Talk about your 8th and 9th generation Ford F150 trucks.

Driveshaft compatibility ?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 19, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #1  
John.h916's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Default Driveshaft compatibility ?

Hey all, got a rear and everything for a front axle swap off a 94 but i didn’t realize the driveshafts are different. What truck could i get one off of from a junkyard that would fit? I’m putting it on my 89 f150 with a 4 speed. Thanks in advance.
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2018 | 07:38 PM
  #2  
BLDTruth's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 489
From: Oregon
Default

Your question is a little confusing... What are you trying to swap onto where?
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2018 | 08:07 PM
  #3  
Steve83's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Default

Driveshafts vary by year range, 2-/4WD, and wheelbase. If you want a JY bolt-in replacement, you have to match all 3.


(phone app link)


You should take the time to put ALL your truck's details into your signature so we can see them all any time we want to answer your questions. The caption of this diagram explains more:


(phone app link)
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #4  
John.h916's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Default

Originally Posted by Steve83
Driveshafts vary by year range, 2-/4WD, and wheelbase. If you want a JY bolt-in replacement, you have to match all 3.


(phone app link)



You should take the time to put ALL your truck's details into your signature so we can see them all any time we want to answer your questions. The caption of this diagram explains more:


(phone app link)
Sorry im new to the whole forum thing. I found this adaptor on summit racing i believe should work. I need to make sure it’s the right size first. I’m gonna go out in the morning and I’ll add everything to my signature.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cur-88-cfda
Reply
Old Jan 20, 2018 | 11:08 AM
  #5  
Steve83's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Default

If you're going to buy & change things we haven't suggested or recommended, you'll probably waste a LOT of time & money before it's fixed. Fill in your signature first, with EVERY detail. Post pics of the truck, transmission, rear axle, original driveshaft, and the donor driveshaft(s).
Reply
Old Jan 20, 2018 | 08:19 PM
  #6  
John.h916's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Default

Okay sorry for all the confusion, I’ll try and clear some things up. I believe i have my signature set now so that should help. To start off, i bought a 89 f1504wd that needed a rear and clutch. My first undertaking has been the rear. It originally had the 3.55 gears in it from the factory. When searching for a new rear, i cane across a very good deal. The truck it was coming off of was a 94 f150 xl, that’s all i know about it. It had 3.88 gears in it. I got a rear and everything to do the solid axle swap off of the donor truck. When i began to do the rear axle, i noticed the driveshafts were different. My original one was attached with u bolts at the rear u joint. The new one was attached with 4 bolts instead. I found that adaptor that i had mentioned earlier online. When i looked into it more, i found that that price was stock on the newer trucks. I went to the junkyard and pulled one from a 94 they didn’t even charge me for it. I also bought a new u joint. It fit right up to my truck and rear with no issues.

I had to go up to a suspension shop near me and have u bolts made for the axle to fit the lift blocks. I haven’t had any major issues so far, only problem i am having is removing the old rusty brake lines. Once i get this done i am going to begin the clutch.

I will post pictures of what i have done so far here in a few. Thanks for the help so far.
Reply
Old Jan 20, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #7  
John.h916's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Default

Reply
Old Jan 21, 2018 | 10:58 AM
  #8  
Steve83's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Default

That's already connected - why are you looking for an adapter?

Keep the brake lines soaking in penetrating oil for a few days, and read these captions:


(phone app link)



(phone app link


You only need to identify the engine once in your sig; we know that an '89 5.0L is a V8 with EFI. But "4sp" doesn't identify the transmission - use the links in that caption to find out what MODEL it is. THe note about the SAS doesn't make sense because a '94 F150 didn't come with a solid axle, either. Try to figure out the ORIGIN of the solid axle, as well as its model. 6" of suspension lift sounds like a helluva lot for 35s. I run 33s with no lift (of any kind).
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2018 | 09:33 PM
  #9  
John.h916's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va
Default

Originally Posted by Steve83
That's already connected - why are you looking for an adapter?

Keep the brake lines soaking in penetrating oil for a few days, and read these captions:


(phone app link)



(phone app link


You only need to identify the engine once in your sig; we know that an '89 5.0L is a V8 with EFI. But "4sp" doesn't identify the transmission - use the links in that caption to find out what MODEL it is. THe note about the SAS doesn't make sense because a '94 F150 didn't come with a solid axle, either. Try to figure out the ORIGIN of the solid axle, as well as its model. 6" of suspension lift sounds like a helluva lot for 35s. I run 33s with no lift (of any kind).
That’s what i was saying, i found that “adaptor” in the junkyard and they have it to me for free. It is just the style that doesn’t use the u bolts to hold the u joint to the rear.I got all the brakes done as well, they were so rounded off and i already had new brakes lines sitting around so i cut the lines close to the head and used one of those Irwin easy out sockets on it. Pulled them right off.Everything is done now except the clutch and SAS. I will try and find out tomorrow what the actual axle is from. The guy before me said it was already on there when he bought the truck. Makes sense now i forgot that he told me where they had to cut the belly pan a little to make it fit. Where can i find the actual transmission model and whatever i need to for the axle? I can check tomorrow afternoon. As for the lift, it sits excessively high right now, the rear bumper is 35” from the ground and the law here states it cannot be higher than 30”. This is why i planned on taking the body lift off and changing the body mounts in the process because they look like they are starting to dry rot. When i bought the truck, i believe it had like a 3 or 4” lift on it from skyjacker and then the body lift on top of it. When i bought the axles from the dude with the 94, he said he had a 6” lift on it. He gave me the blocks and everything that came with the front. They removed everything on the front as one. I put the bigger blocks he gave me on the rear but haven’t done anything on the front yet. I was debating on putting larger tires on it (38’s at the most). My question is, if i put my old blocks on and use the coil springs that i had with the smaller lift, would it match up with everything on the solid axle and the lift installed on it? I would like the truck to sit mostly level still. I know I’m throwing a lot out there but I’m just trying to weigh all my options. Also I’m still trying to figure this whole forum thing out. So if this is something i should have in a different thread or section let me know. I can’t even figure out how to get to this post without going to my email and following the link from someone replying.
Reply
Old Jan 22, 2018 | 10:34 AM
  #10  
Steve83's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Default

Originally Posted by John.h916
...they had to cut the belly pan a little to make it fit.
Do you mean the skidplate? It unbolts, so it shouldn't have been cut. Or do you mean the engine oil pan? Or the frame crossmember?
Originally Posted by John.h916
Where can i find the actual transmission model and whatever i need to for the axle?
In the caption of the 2nd diagram in my first reply.
Originally Posted by John.h916
...changing the body mounts...
I highly recommend black Energy Polyurethane. Not red, and no other brand.
Originally Posted by John.h916
He gave me the blocks and everything that came with the front.
Front blocks are VERY dangerous for a road vehicle.
Originally Posted by John.h916
I was debating on putting larger tires on it (38’s at the most).
Why? What do you do with the truck that requires tires that size?
Originally Posted by John.h916
My question is, if i put my old blocks on...
Never drive it at highway speeds again, on any surface.
Originally Posted by John.h916
...use the coil springs that i had with the smaller lift, would it match up with everything on the solid axle...
You can't use coil springs on a solid axle without adding a complicated suspension system. Leaf springs hold an axle in-place; coils don't.
Originally Posted by John.h916
I can’t even figure out how to get to this post without going to my email and following the link from someone replying.
Are you using a computer, or a phone? Discussion forums work MUCH better on computers.
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:01 PM.