Does anything look suspect here?
This is the thing the gear box connects to, does that look worn?
It looks like there is a PS fluid leak, but ive driven this for years and good miles and havent noticed a loss. Maybe its old?
I dont think leaf springs should do that OwO
The issue I see are heavily rusted steel lines for the power steering.Some day soon, they blow and will leak.I cannot tell from looking underneath if that is the power steering pump with a leak or the a/c compressor leaking oil. Either case, it is not bad and I would leave it alone if you never had to top off and power steering fluid.A few drops spread over time look worse than it actually is. The pitman arm is rusted but that doesn't mean it's bad. The one leaf spring shifted. It's not a real big deal and probably was like that for a long time but would bother me since I want everything in good working order. You will need to procure new u bolts, loosen and discard the old ones, loosely install the new u bolts, raise the truck and hammer the spring back into place.Then tighten the u bolts to specs. I doubt you will be able to do it without loosening the u bolt or reusing that rusted pair of u bolts.
Your truck is heavily rusted underneath. I would look over the frame and make sure it is not rusted through before I invested any money into your truck.
Your truck is heavily rusted underneath. I would look over the frame and make sure it is not rusted through before I invested any money into your truck.
Last edited by raski; Jun 20, 2020 at 05:27 AM.
Those power steering lines needs to be replaced and here is a technique that may save you some time and bloody knuckles. As you probably know tubing fittings are generally loosened/tightened using a tubing wrench however when you have a badly rusted fitting there is a good chance the wrench will round over the flats on the tubing nut and add significant time to your repair.
Here is what I do. First soak the fitting in PB nut blaster two or three times over the period of 20-30 minutes. Tap on the fitting while it is wet with PB nut blaster to get better penetration. Now try your tubing wrench and if it will loosen the nut you are good to go. However if it does not come loose bend the tubing back and forth until it breaks close to the nut. Now use a six point socket on the tubing nut and with luck you can break it loose. Once loosened a turn or two wire brush the threads to help prevent debris from getting into the pump female fitting. Now fully remove the nut and broken tubing. Good luck!
Here is what I do. First soak the fitting in PB nut blaster two or three times over the period of 20-30 minutes. Tap on the fitting while it is wet with PB nut blaster to get better penetration. Now try your tubing wrench and if it will loosen the nut you are good to go. However if it does not come loose bend the tubing back and forth until it breaks close to the nut. Now use a six point socket on the tubing nut and with luck you can break it loose. Once loosened a turn or two wire brush the threads to help prevent debris from getting into the pump female fitting. Now fully remove the nut and broken tubing. Good luck!
Those power steering lines needs to be replaced and here is a technique that may save you some time and bloody knuckles. As you probably know tubing fittings are generally loosened/tightened using a tubing wrench however when you have a badly rusted fitting there is a good chance the wrench will round over the flats on the tubing nut and add significant time to your repair.
Here is what I do. First soak the fitting in PB nut blaster two or three times over the period of 20-30 minutes. Tap on the fitting while it is wet with PB nut blaster to get better penetration. Now try your tubing wrench and if it will loosen the nut you are good to go. However if it does not come loose bend the tubing back and forth until it breaks close to the nut. Now use a six point socket on the tubing nut and with luck you can break it loose. Once loosened a turn or two wire brush the threads to help prevent debris from getting into the pump female fitting. Now fully remove the nut and broken tubing. Good luck!
Here is what I do. First soak the fitting in PB nut blaster two or three times over the period of 20-30 minutes. Tap on the fitting while it is wet with PB nut blaster to get better penetration. Now try your tubing wrench and if it will loosen the nut you are good to go. However if it does not come loose bend the tubing back and forth until it breaks close to the nut. Now use a six point socket on the tubing nut and with luck you can break it loose. Once loosened a turn or two wire brush the threads to help prevent debris from getting into the pump female fitting. Now fully remove the nut and broken tubing. Good luck!
do you two think the return and high pressure lines require replacement?
The issue I see are heavily rusted steel lines for the power steering.Some day soon, they blow and will leak.I cannot tell from looking underneath if that is the power steering pump with a leak or the a/c compressor leaking oil. Either case, it is not bad and I would leave it alone if you never had to top off and power steering fluid.A few drops spread over time look worse than it actually is. The pitman arm is rusted but that doesn't mean it's bad. The one leaf spring shifted. It's not a real big deal and probably was like that for a long time but would bother me since I want everything in good working order. You will need to procure new u bolts, loosen and discard the old ones, loosely install the new u bolts, raise the truck and hammer the spring back into place.Then tighten the u bolts to specs. I doubt you will be able to do it without loosening the u bolt or reusing that rusted pair of u bolts.
Your truck is heavily rusted underneath. I would look over the frame and make sure it is not rusted through before I invested any money into your truck.
Your truck is heavily rusted underneath. I would look over the frame and make sure it is not rusted through before I invested any money into your truck.
The pitman arm, my question is that spline looking texture normal? visible between it?
Should i just invest new springs/hangars? Can I get a spring with another leaf or 2?
"do you two think the return and high pressure lines require replacement?"
I would replace them both while I was in there.
Just a side note on the springs - on my 1993 Michigan truck the forward spring mount (this is the one riveted to the frame) was rusted to the point that the spring through bolt became disconnected from the frame (bolt was in place but frame mount was gone at the connection point). The spring stayed in place but moved around and made a popping sound when you made a turn. I chased the problem for months thinking is was a front end problem since the noise seemed to come from the front.
BTW I now live in Mississippi (never dreamed I would end up here) and finding a spring mount in a U-Pull yard was almost a joy, zero rust and still had factory paint. Looked like it had just been shipped by RockAuto. Bolts actually turn down here out of the rust belt, what a difference.
I would replace them both while I was in there.
Just a side note on the springs - on my 1993 Michigan truck the forward spring mount (this is the one riveted to the frame) was rusted to the point that the spring through bolt became disconnected from the frame (bolt was in place but frame mount was gone at the connection point). The spring stayed in place but moved around and made a popping sound when you made a turn. I chased the problem for months thinking is was a front end problem since the noise seemed to come from the front.
BTW I now live in Mississippi (never dreamed I would end up here) and finding a spring mount in a U-Pull yard was almost a joy, zero rust and still had factory paint. Looked like it had just been shipped by RockAuto. Bolts actually turn down here out of the rust belt, what a difference.
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i actually asked about springs, because upclose the hangers arent on deaths bed by any means, but if i got a leaf pack out of wack, the mounts are really the next thing, and one seems kinked almost.
Just a note about heavy rusty things like gear housings and frames and such. Generally, if you hit it with a hammer and it dings it's probably fine. If you hit it and it goes thud, it's time for repair/replacement.








Just joking around with you. I'm a smart butt