bluecar5556

Pinging has nothing to do with base ignition timing if it is set at 10°BTDC.

Spout connector removed=Base ignition timing=10°BTDC=computer is NOT advancing the timing.
Spout connector replaced=approx 20°BTDC=computer takes over and advances the timing

When was the last time the intake manifold was cleaned? You may try introducing water for free very slowly into the intake manifold via brake booster vacuum line or pay $10 for 16oz. of Seafoam. Carbon buildup will detonate the fuel mixture before the spark plug does and will create TWO flame fronts that will collide, being one cause for that pinging sound you hear.

tjdirt

I've done the water injection it seemed to help. Would it hurt to do it again?
Can you do it to much? And how much at one time?

bluecar5556

Can't imagine so with water in a spray pump bottle. It wouldn't hurt to spray in the throttle body, also. The vacuum lines don't clean much more than the runners but anywhere will get in the engine where it matters most in this case.

kc0rey

Back when everybody had carburetors we'd just dump water down the carb, stop when the engine tried to die, pumped the throttle to get the accelerator pump to squirt more gas in so it would stay running and dumped more water, then repeat when the engine started to stall.

I used to run a quart of tap water into the engine. On the modern Fuel injected engine I use one of the smaller vacuum lines (Hard to keep an engine running with the big old vacuum leak you get when you pull that line off of the brake booster). Bring the RPMs up to around 2000 RPMs, suck water up slowly, stop when the engine starts to stall, and when the RPM's come up again repeat. I only use about a cup of water on a injected engine.

Make sure the engine is at Normal Operating Temperature. If you hear crunching, don't worry, that is just the larger deposits falling into the combustion chamber, being crushed and blowing out the tail pipe.

Now, you may ask, "How do these guys know this works?". Anybody who knows engines knows that when you pulls a head off and see a clean cylinder that the head gasket or a water passage has failed. 2 cylinders side by side? The head gasket failed between them.

The water is cool, the combustion deposit is hot. Cool water causes the combustion deposit to crack and fall into the combustion chamber, the water turns to steam and everything passes the exhaust valve.

tjdirt

Would my 1992 have a knock sensor and if so where at?

kc0rey

I'm certain it does. Usually they are mounted to the back of the block.

tjdirt

Is there any way to test it?

kc0rey

Codes? It might be in the manual, but I'll not go there tonight. It is bedtime and I'n not up to heavy reading tonight. My eyes are old....

bluecar5556

Yes, pull the wire off the knock sensor and connect one lead of your multimeter to the terminal on the knock sensor and the other lead to engine ground. Tap on the sensor with a blunt object and you should get a AC Voltage reading of approx 1V that it produces from the piezoelectric crystal inside, if I remember correctly.

ymeski56

SPOUT "in" add's additional ECU advance to your base time of, in your case, you say is set at 10 BTDC. If that is in fact what it's set at, additional ECU advance should not be an issue, if air to fuel ratio & combustion chamber temps are in the ballpark of normalcy.

Timing "all in" will be 19-23 degree's additional to your base time of 10 BTDC. Say by 3,000 RPM.