Originally Posted by kc0rey

I became "aware" of SeaFoam in 2003 when I restored an old (1979) Goldwing. I used it in the gas and it did a wonderful job of solving a mid RPM problem I was having with my carbs.
In 2003 most people didn't knw what SeaFoam was because only Marine Mechanics used it on 2 cycle boat motors.

I like the product as a gas treatment. I don't know if it works as a Oil treatment or to remove combustion deposits on the valves or pistons but I have tried it. I choose not to use it except as a fuel treatment, once a year, because of it's cost.

When it was introduced to my intake, I had great white plumes of smoke. The same as using transmission fluid in the same capacity.

Here is what I know...water works very well and is inexpensive. Only a moron could manage to hydrolock his engine with the small amounts you use. In the old days you'd pour water into the carb while reving the engine until the engine started to stall and then pump the gas to keep the engine going. I used to use about 1 quart of water. I have never hydrolocked an engine.

The O2 argument aside, anytime you introduce something foreign into a combustion chamber you run a high risk of ruining a Catalytic Converter. For example, Oil leaking past your rings will clog your cat.

Water is water. It is in the air you and your engine breaths. Too much can be a very bad thing for you and your engine if you get too much, too fast. Used properly, water turns into steam, cleans what it needs to and goes out your exhaust. Water Vapor will not harm a cat.

Learn about Water Injection here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engines)

Right now, water/methanol injection is very popular with the racers, especially those running high boost.

As to lawsuits for product claims that aren't true.....Amsoil would be a good example, as would all those infomercials you see on TV. They are rare to non existent.

As for the O2 sensor argument:

What will damage my O2 sensor?

Home or professional auto repairs that have used silicone gasket sealer that is not specifically labeled "Oxygen sensor safe", "Sensor safe", or something similar, if used in an area that is connected to the crankcase. This includes valve covers, oil pan, or nearly any other gasket or seal that controls engine oil. Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor in a short time. If a car is running rich over a long period, the sensor may become plugged up or even destroyed. Just shorting out the sensor output wire will not usually hurt the sensor. This simply grounds the output voltage to zero. Once the wiring is repaired, the circuit operates normally. Undercoating, antifreeze or oil on the *outside* surface of the sensor can kill it.

From: http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

Originally Posted by ymeski56

While this can occur w/ Seafoam or water, my personal opinion is there is a greater propensity to occur w/ water. Preheat engine engine to normal op. temp before applying either. A gaseous state allows compression. A fluid state does not.

Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD

I was only stating that hydrolock was a possibility. You can use any ESTABLISHED method as long as you do it PROPERLY. Seafoam gives very specific very clear instructions on the various uses of their products. They also give fair warning and advice concerning certain POSSIBLE problems and ways to avoid them.

I didn't even know Seafoam existed until I started coming to this forum. I've only used it once so far and it helped immensely.

Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD

Losses? I was thinking more along the lines of false advertisement. But if you could prove it was the Seafoam that would just help your case.

Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD

Proof wouldn't be that hard. Make a video that shows you putting a new sensor in or proving that it had no problems before the use of Seafoam. Using the Seafoam as per their instructions showing proof that you are indeed following their given instructions.

Then show that the sensor has been fouled or damaged in some way after you used Seafoam in your system.

Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD

Seafoam didn't make any "thick white plumbs" when I used it. Nor does it with everyone that uses it.

Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD

So because they're trying to sell their product you obviously can't believe anything they say about it. Lord forbid someone tries to sell their product. Guess we shouldn't buy or use anything that someone is trying to sell.

Originally Posted by bluecar5556

How would you prove it was false advertisement if one cannot prove it was seafoam that did the damage in the first place?

Originally Posted by bluecar5556

Then what was said previously is contradicted, now people will have to record themselves every time they use a new product, just in case something happens 15 15k or 150k miles down the road when a lawsuit is required?

Originally Posted by bluecar5556

You were up pretty early this morning, did you get the chance to watch the paid programming infomercials late at night? You have much to learn about how marketing really works, it's not cut and dry as some would like to think.

Originally Posted by bluecar5556

Hydrolock can occur on either seafoam or water and due to eincompetence, can happen with either just as easily. Can we get back on topic about the potential risk of O2 sensor, catalytic converter, and possibly even paper gasket fouling/deterioration from the use of seafoam vs water?

Originally Posted by ymeski56

I've used it on all types of commercial equipment (Commercial Machinery Field tech). Including gas & diesel of all sizes From gas weed wackers on up since 78'.

Familiar w/ atributes of steam. Boiler tech too.

Originally Posted by kc0rey

All the BS aside, it appears that this truck is running correctly, and it was $.03 worth of Tap Water that helped solve the problem.

Good job to all those who posted, and to the OP.

Originally Posted by 90customf150

Man that was intense. I use seafoam for every new car I get. Lots and lots of smoke. No o2 sensors bad. Not yet anyways.