Well I guess to somewhat narrow it down hook your test light up
start pulling the fusses in the box under the hood one at a time.
Light does not go out put it back and try next fuse least you'll
Isolate what circuit its on.

 

Well I hooked up the test light from the positive cable to the battery and started pulling fuses under the hood. The one that made the light go out was location 20 Instrument panel fuses. From looking at a diagram It control's 4,8,12,16 on the interior fuse block. I don't know if this was a smart thing to do, but I took the fuse block under the hood apart cut the wire to the fuse and split with a toggle switch. Now with the test light hooked up I can turn the test light off and on with the toggle. Last night I had the toggle turned off and something still drained my battery. Again the battery is brand new and the alternator checked out fine. Any other suggestion's would be appreciated.

 

what are fuses 4,8,12,16

 

If you ran the new battery dead several times then it could already be bad. Batteries aren't supposed to be ran lower than about 10 volts or permanent damage can result. Go ahead and have it tested to make sure. It's under warranty and now that you found a big draw it shouldn't be damaged again. Also you should make sure it is fully charged. My girlfriends battery ran stone dead from the brake lights being stuck on, and it took 12 hours at 6 volts to fully charge it back up.

 

This is a diagram for a Ford Bronco, I'm guessing it's the same as my 92 F-150.
Tomorrow I'll take the battery back and have it checked. Thank's for all the help!!!!

 

Are you sure about that JCMS? I had a 93 Dakota that had the voltage regulator mounted to the fender. I did some checking on rockauto.com and found a Motorcraft voltage regulator, for a 92 F150 5.0L, that does not look like it belongs inside an alternator.(pic below)

 

That type of reg is bolted to the alt it would have shown bad during an alt test.

 

Yep, the regulator is bolted to the back of some alternators. Not quite inside the alternator, but a part of it none the less.

 

Yeah, my altenator turned up bad, not this december but last, and it showed up BAD for everything. Well I got a new one and that fixed that. It would drain the battery no matter what I had unplugged. Plus, it was a new battery, and all my fuses were good. But the new alt, and voltage regulator fixed it. After awhile it started draining again. It turned out to be the solenoid itself. It had gone bad, and was stuck closed. Took me 3 minutes to replace and they are less than five dollars. I also changed the ignition coil too. And replaced some bad wire going to the brake lights that was grounding out and blowing fuses+ eating power. So you have to CHECK EVERYTHING. Even if you dont think its that. These trucks are notorious for stupid problems you overlook. And youre like NAH that couldnt be it! but then it turns out being that! so watch yourself. And just think, it could be that stupid thing. Because usually it IS!