Cooling/Radiator Help
General Radiator Advice. I have not touched the radiator on my F150.
2 Rows do cool better, but more rows is more size. You may have to modify or remove parts.
All Aluminum radiators have outperformed conventional hybrids in every other case I have changed them.
Replace everything that is even remotely damaged or old. The weak parts make themselves known when the radiator is replaced. Spend the extra 3-4 dollars on the better hoses. Top and Bottom hoses, lines to and from the water pump, and to the heater coil. Also if it has those old pinch clamps, replace with modern hose clamps of your choosing.
Beyond that we are talking specifics, and someone will have pertinent F150 advice for you in no time.
2 Rows do cool better, but more rows is more size. You may have to modify or remove parts.
All Aluminum radiators have outperformed conventional hybrids in every other case I have changed them.
Replace everything that is even remotely damaged or old. The weak parts make themselves known when the radiator is replaced. Spend the extra 3-4 dollars on the better hoses. Top and Bottom hoses, lines to and from the water pump, and to the heater coil. Also if it has those old pinch clamps, replace with modern hose clamps of your choosing.
Beyond that we are talking specifics, and someone will have pertinent F150 advice for you in no time.
And the advice about changing everything that looks old is sound. It's your cooling system, if it fails you're dead in the water and you'll probably cook your motor. A few extra bucks for top of the line hoses looks cheap at that point
I am from Boston originally, but am now in Colorado. I found that clamps died more in Boston, and hoses die more out here. I think its moisture.
Clamps rust or corrode out and fall apart, but the hoses don't dry out.
Here the clamps seem to last (all original on my 95 F150, not garaged), but the hoses crack and stiffen.
Clamps rust or corrode out and fall apart, but the hoses don't dry out.
Here the clamps seem to last (all original on my 95 F150, not garaged), but the hoses crack and stiffen.
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I have to ask, in what scenario does a 2 core or 3 core rad cool better than the factory single with a properly functioning cooling system? These trucks are designed to be cooled with the factory radiator as long as the entire cooling system is functioning as designed. I see this all of the time and have yet found an answer as to the need to upgrade radiators, except for the usual, "Because so and so said so".
I'm running my stock single core on my 1995 I6 and pull ridiculous loads in ridiculous heat and according to every radiator thread, I should be overheating. If the system is clean, water pump and heater core in good condition, clean water jackets free of deposits and build up and properly operating fan and fan clutch, you should be able to rip the trans out of the truck long before the radiator.
Also, no one has asked the op......are you running an automatic trans? Experiencing transmission cooling issues? If the trans runs hot, it WILL cause cooling issues with the radiator unless there is an aftermarket trans cooler in line and the rad is bypassed.
Long story short, a higher volume rad will help to reduce temps or should I say, MASK other problems, until another part of the cooling system fails. It also creates a denser area for air to flow through. Also, what about fin count on the new radiator? Are we going to suggest a two core or three core without taking fin count and functionality into account?
Lot's more to think about than just throwing in any old 2 or 3 core rad. Start with the basics first. Why is my truck overheating to start with?
I'm running my stock single core on my 1995 I6 and pull ridiculous loads in ridiculous heat and according to every radiator thread, I should be overheating. If the system is clean, water pump and heater core in good condition, clean water jackets free of deposits and build up and properly operating fan and fan clutch, you should be able to rip the trans out of the truck long before the radiator.
Also, no one has asked the op......are you running an automatic trans? Experiencing transmission cooling issues? If the trans runs hot, it WILL cause cooling issues with the radiator unless there is an aftermarket trans cooler in line and the rad is bypassed.
Long story short, a higher volume rad will help to reduce temps or should I say, MASK other problems, until another part of the cooling system fails. It also creates a denser area for air to flow through. Also, what about fin count on the new radiator? Are we going to suggest a two core or three core without taking fin count and functionality into account?
Lot's more to think about than just throwing in any old 2 or 3 core rad. Start with the basics first. Why is my truck overheating to start with?
Last edited by unit505; Nov 16, 2014 at 05:59 PM.
I have to ask, in what scenario does a 2 core or 3 core rad cool better than the factory single with a properly functioning cooling system? These trucks are designed to be cooled with the factory radiator as long as the entire cooling system is functioning as designed. I see this all of the time and have yet found an answer as to the need to upgrade radiators, except for the usual, "Because so and so said so". I'm running my stock single core on my 1995 I6 and pull ridiculous loads in ridiculous heat and according to every radiator thread, I should be overheating. If the system is clean, water pump and heater core in good condition, clean water jackets free of deposits and build up and properly operating fan and fan clutch, you should be able to rip the trans out of the truck long before the radiator. Also, no one has asked the op......are you running an automatic trans? Experiencing transmission cooling issues? If the trans runs hot, it WILL cause cooling issues with the radiator unless there is an aftermarket trans cooler in line and the rad is bypassed. Long story short, a higher volume rad will help to reduce temps or should I say, MASK other problems, until another part of the cooling system fails. It also creates a denser area for air to flow through. Also, what about fin count on the new radiator? Are we going to suggest a two core or three core without taking fin count and functionality into account? Lot's more to think about than just throwing in any old 2 or 3 core rad. Start with the basics first. Why is my truck overheating to start with?
I understand the extra capacity, but the overall system health is key. So is adding a trans cooler, if your dealing with an automatic. Losing the hot trans fluid from the radiator eliminates 25-50% of the heat from the engines cooling system. The rad fan typically cannot create enough air flow, especially at lower rpms, to cool the transmission oil as well as it does the much thinner antifreeze mix. While I drive a stick, I've never had cooling issues while towing and swapping to a 185* t-tstat improved the average temperature by several degrees during sustained towing/pulling. Throw in the e-fans where I can pop the hood and set the temp 10-20* lower on the controller for towing and those problems are completely out of mind.
Now with that said, not knowing what gearing the OP has, the max tow capacity for the '96 F150 4x4 with I6 is only 5300lbs and that's only if he has 3.55 or higher gear and an automatic. The 3.08 specifically says the vehicle cannot tow and the 3.31 doesn't have an available tow rating. The M5OD has a max tow rating of 1900lbs, with the 3.08, 2500 with the 3.31 and 3200 with the 3.55. The OP also did not say that he was having cooling issues or what his intended purpose is. If he's having cooling issues, the first thing that needs to be asked is under what conditions he's having those issues. Like I said, no need to recommend throwing a 2 or 3 core rad in there without knowing if there is another problem to start with. I too tow with an F150 that Ford specifically says is not rated for towing. So that's a moot point for me and a chance that I take. During the shortage of hay in and around Louisiana a couple of years ago, we started having numerous wrecks involving overloaded trucks and trailers. Everyone that owned a pick up truck started hauling hay across the state line and the wrecks started to be so frequent that the State Police began pulling over any pick up that appeared to be overloaded, be it travel trailer or hay trailer and writing tickets and towing trucks. Short story is that he may be asking more of his rig than it's capable of and the radiator is not going to fix that long term. Before giving advise on the cooling system, I just like to see if there's another starting point from the OP. That's the best advise any of us could give the guy.
I know I sound dramatic on this topic, but there's just too much experience available on this forum for us not to lend some of it to the OP, unless he just wants to throw away good money.
Now with that said, not knowing what gearing the OP has, the max tow capacity for the '96 F150 4x4 with I6 is only 5300lbs and that's only if he has 3.55 or higher gear and an automatic. The 3.08 specifically says the vehicle cannot tow and the 3.31 doesn't have an available tow rating. The M5OD has a max tow rating of 1900lbs, with the 3.08, 2500 with the 3.31 and 3200 with the 3.55. The OP also did not say that he was having cooling issues or what his intended purpose is. If he's having cooling issues, the first thing that needs to be asked is under what conditions he's having those issues. Like I said, no need to recommend throwing a 2 or 3 core rad in there without knowing if there is another problem to start with. I too tow with an F150 that Ford specifically says is not rated for towing. So that's a moot point for me and a chance that I take. During the shortage of hay in and around Louisiana a couple of years ago, we started having numerous wrecks involving overloaded trucks and trailers. Everyone that owned a pick up truck started hauling hay across the state line and the wrecks started to be so frequent that the State Police began pulling over any pick up that appeared to be overloaded, be it travel trailer or hay trailer and writing tickets and towing trucks. Short story is that he may be asking more of his rig than it's capable of and the radiator is not going to fix that long term. Before giving advise on the cooling system, I just like to see if there's another starting point from the OP. That's the best advise any of us could give the guy.
I know I sound dramatic on this topic, but there's just too much experience available on this forum for us not to lend some of it to the OP, unless he just wants to throw away good money.
Last edited by unit505; Nov 17, 2014 at 01:16 AM.


