New to the forum( https://www.f150forum.com/f3/picked-...t-goody-44754/ )and did some reading and read my codes. Here is what I got:

33 throttle positioner sensor noisy/harsh on line
67 neutral/drive switch circuit open

What do these mean?


Also thought this might help some.
http://www.extreme-check-engine-ligh...%20Decoder.htm

 

Could be The TPS connector is dirty or the insulation on the wires are comprised, & there was a particular part of the test that you needed to have the clutch pushed in (Ether that, or it starts in gear).

 

I also had (and still have) a code 33.
Another member pointed out to me that the Haynes manual lists a code 33 as "EGR valve not opening-Perform EGR valve and EVR vacume checks."

I also searched online and in some Motor guides at the library.
I have come to believe that the other member is correct, that code 33 is EGR related.

I still haven't done the tests.

 

Yes. I just took for granted that mulch actually new what the code meant as his post implied, so I didn't bother looking it up. Oops! On trucks only, it means EGR not closing properly. This usually will also lean out an engine. The first thing is remove & clean the EGR, making sure the valve is seating completely & it's mounting portways are clear at the air intake. Checking the EGR diaphragm to make sure it doesn't leak, while it's off. The next thing to check would be the ERG solenoid. Shouldn't have Vac at EGR at idle.

 

My EGR tube is actually disconnected (broke) at the exhaust pipe. I am in the process of attatching it. I dont want to replace the pipe yet so I am going to use a exhaust repair kit or something.
Will this throw the code?

 

In my manual for my code reader it says for the I6 you have to hold the clutch down while reading codes if you have a manual trans. So that would be the second code.

 

Yep, and regarding the tube: Don't replace it, take your chances! although I would think that would allow the EGR to close easier, so you still need to deal w/ the valve not closing.

 

So I checked out the EGR. At idle I started to disconnect all vacuum lines and I could here the EGR open and close as I would pull the lines so the thing seems to be working. I then cleared the codes and ran a test again ( with the clutch in) and got code 11. All is good. Connecting the EGR at the pipe must have been the trick. Now I just need to make sure it doesnt come off again.

Hopefully this will improve the mpg. The PO had said that he got 10 mpg and I havent driven it enough to test the mpg. Ill have to wait and see.