needshave

Steve, I got the truck tore down yesterday, with your help. I did have a problem though. I could not get the steering shaft to collapse. I soaked the shaft in blaster, worked, pounded and pried on the shaft for about an hour until I got aggravated with it and put a vise grip on it and started to pound it down toward the floorboard until it started to move. Once I got to move it moved with ease. Just a lot of dry surface rust holding it together. My Clutch and brake assembly is in bad shape. There are two small bolts on the top of the bracket that bolts to the assembly to the firewall. It is cracked through one bolt all the way to the hole that the pedal shaft pivots in, It was quite distorted, SO, I just replaced it. I got the new one in. One thing I would like to get some advise on if you would be so kind. The new clutch pedal box assembly came in with the crank arm, that bent arm that actuates the clutch master cylinder, loose. it is mounted but certainly not tight and free to rotate. Is that simply to align the crank arm with the position of the master cylinder rod? Would I simply mount the box assembly, locating the arm to the clutch rod then tighten the crank arm nut? There are no splines on the crank arm. Hopefully, if I just tighten the crank arm nut, it will hold the position. I have not tried it. I hope to install tomorrow.

Appreciate your help..

BLDTruth

The splines will cut into that lever arm once you tighten the nut. The key to the whole process is to attach the master rod to the lever before you have it tightened, push in the master cylinder rod to remove any of the residual slack, and then tighten the nut down on the lever, which will cut the splines into the lever itself. The link I provided with all the part numbers previously describes it well.

Steve83

You must not have read all those captions - that's both described AND linked in this one:


(phone app link)

BTW
I added more pics to the album in post #8.

needshave

BLDtruth, Steve;

Thanks for writing. Actually, I did read all the captions. When I tightened it down, it did not hold the position. After much review, looking at your information and all the others I could find on the net, I found that the new assembly was shipped with a nylon washer between the crank arm and the spline of the cross shaft. Of course, when I would tighten it down it would simply bite into the plastic washer and would not lock the crank arm into position. Once I woke up and determined that the washer needs to be removed before attempting to lock the crank arm into position, then it all came together. I took the washer out and cranked it down. I have it all back together now, I have moved it around in the shop, it seems to be fine. I haven't taken it out on the road yet, it was very late when I finished it last night. Any Idea what that should be torqued to? I tightened it as much as I could with a 1/2" breaker bar.

Thanks again for your help.

BLDTruth

LOL, well we have all been there, glad you got it sorted.

I wouldn't worry about torquing it down - just depress the pedal by hand several times while watching the lever/master action and make sure the master rod bushing/pedal lever connection is solid and isn't slipping in any way. 10-20 depressions should do it to make sure. If everything looks good, take her for a spin in a friendly neighborhood.

When I first did mine I didn't replace the actual lever arm, so the new master bushing kept slipping off of it. That was a fun trip around the block. Once I replaced the lever arm, the bushing snapped on and held really tightly. Since you have a whole new assembly I doubt you will have issues, but you don't want to hear that pop and feel the clutch drop to the floor when you are in city traffic.

Steve83

50-68 lb-ft (68-92 Nm); and I just added it to those captions.

DCDOBBS

i paid 75 for the whole assembly. Shaft & clutch & break assembly were worn.

Steve83

This thread has been dead 5 years.

DCDOBBS

While tightening the clutch arm to the spline, the shaft broke.
Is there any tricks to install the arm on the spline?

Steve83

No trick. Simply following the published procedure has always worked for me.

(click this text)


Just make sure the lever is centered on the shaft's splines before tightening the nut. If it's offcenter, it won't go onto the splines - it'll just get clamped between the nut & shaft end.