needshave

The clutch/brake pedal assembly on my 1996 Ford F150 has worn out. I have found several online that are available, one is from Amazon. But I can not determine that the part they have for sale is the correct part number for my truck. Amazon has an F3TZ2455-A in stock but says it is for an F250 & F350. When I input my truck spec's, F150- 4.9L, it advises the part will not fit the F-150. I think that's wrong. The other suppliers list my truck but not the 4.9l only 5.0L and up. SO if anyone has an OEM part number for 1996 F150, 4.9l, brake and clutch pedal assembly, i would greatly appreciate hearing from you. I still think the F3TZ2455-A. Thanks.

BLDTruth

The part number you listed will work for the F150 too.

If you want to save some money you can just by the bushings for the pedal assembly and rebuild it. I think I paid 50-ish for new bushings and a new pedal lever (the one that links the pedal assembly to the master cylinder). Feels brand new again.

needshave

Thanks, BLDTruth, I have NAPA checking to see if they can get the parts you talked about. I will probably need to get a new bushing for the Clutch to foot pedal as well. Do you remember what you used for that? SO far all I find is an assortment pack offered for the 96, buy and hope it fits approach. Typically I'm not very lucky with that.

Thanks again....

Steve83

The pedal assembly is NOT different for each engine or chassis weight; only for auto/manual, and 2 year ranges (within this forum's range). There were a few minor changes from '92-97, but they're interchangeable (among all autos, or all manuals of those years). The PN you posted is correct for your truck. This & the NEXT 6 pics show how I fixed mine:


(phone app link)

I'm about to do another one today or tomorrow (when it stops raining)...

BLDTruth

See Steve's comments above and this:

http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/92-97-pedal-bushings.html

Has all the info and part numbers.

needshave

Thanks so much, Steve, that is a tremendous help! I mean tremendous! It looks like one is going to be standing on ones head to pull this beast out. Did you pull the seat out or just tough it out? I'm not where the truck is right now, but removing the steering shaft is a bit concerning. I don't have access to the truck right now to look at it, so I'm a bit concerned how all that comes about. Thanks so much.

needshave

Thanks, BLDTruth that's a big help, I have looked at Steves comments and about to look at the dieselhub link you sent, thanks again.

Steve83

I'm 255#, ~6'2" - I just leaned against the threshold and removed it a few minutes ago. I might have rolled onto my back for a moment to get the wiring tucked out of the way before pulling the pedal box, but it's just not that difficult when you look at & think about what you're doing. That link mentions twisting & yanking the box out - mine both came down in their normal orientations. When the clutch MC studs clear the firewall, the box will slide straight down, and out. Maybe they didn't get the brake & clutch pushrods and the steering shaft pushed out of the firewall, but it's obviously easier with them out, and it's easy to push them out. This photo album is what I did today:
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/23144/87473-2

needshave

Steve...You're the man! Thanks for all that Information. That will help a tremendous amount. The truck is about 25 miles from me and I hope to get there and start on it Thursday of this week. Not sure about the steering column though, is it collapsable so it can be collapsed back toward the steering wheel when you remove the locking bolt? Did you mark the location of the Sttering shafr to the yoke or is it pretty much self locating as long as the steering wheel and wheels are kept in the straight ahead location.

I really appreciate your efforts to help me with this!!

Steve83

"Telescopic" - yes, all modern columns are, since maybe ~1975.No, the intermediate shaft telescopes forward, toward the steering box & out the firewall, like the pushrods.It only fits 1 way, so as long as you don't spin either side more than 1/2 turn (you shouldn't spin either at all), it will be obvious. Keep the steering wheel locked - if you spin it on a '94-96 truck, you can damage the clock spring.


(phone app link)