Check Engine Light
Ya got me, I can't remember its been a while since I had to look. I do believe that it depends on the scanner though. The MODIS I use at the shop lists them by name. The Ford system used a code. A cheap one I used just had numbers. I bet it won't be too hard to figure out when your looking at it.
Okay: this is how they showed up.
O2s11 read between .335 and .853
O2s12 between .350 and .755
O2s21 between .090 and .225
And the fuel trim was listed 3 different times but all of them fluctuated between -1.9 and 2.3
What am I looking at and what are they supposed to read??
O2s11 read between .335 and .853
O2s12 between .350 and .755
O2s21 between .090 and .225
And the fuel trim was listed 3 different times but all of them fluctuated between -1.9 and 2.3
What am I looking at and what are they supposed to read??
Last edited by Mista_Breeze; Feb 23, 2014 at 06:29 PM.
OK 11 is right front, 21 is left front 12 is rear (cat). I have to double check but it looks like they read from 0 to 1v ( as opposed to 0 to 5 like I said earlier) The fuel trim looks OK but that doesn't mean the system isn't lean. You can double check that they are working with the propane trick but I think checking for a vacuum leak will be the likely step. A vacuum gauge will help. Just connect the gauge and plug all the lines going to the manifold. Then reconnect them some by some until one causes a vacuum drop. Another way is to use WD40 or starter fluid sprayed on suspected leaks and listen for the idle to change. Or you can use your propane torch again. Turn the propane on low and move it around leak areas. If a leak pulls the propane in the idle will change and the sensors will go rich ( high voltage)
OK 11 is right front, 21 is left front 12 is rear (cat). I have to double check but it looks like they read from 0 to 1v ( as opposed to 0 to 5 like I said earlier) The fuel trim looks OK but that doesn't mean the system isn't lean. You can double check that they are working with the propane trick but I think checking for a vacuum leak will be the likely step. A vacuum gauge will help. Just connect the gauge and plug all the lines going to the manifold. Then reconnect them some by some until one causes a vacuum drop. Another way is to use WD40 or starter fluid sprayed on suspected leaks and listen for the idle to change. Or you can use your propane torch again. Turn the propane on low and move it around leak areas. If a leak pulls the propane in the idle will change and the sensors will go rich ( high voltage)
Like they said the diagram is in the engine bay by law unless someone removed it. A quick Google search almost always brings up vacuum schematics. The vacuum on the 5.0 is pretty simply though. Most of it is on the main t at the manifold.


