So, I've had this '93 f150 for about a month now. Initially, the first alternator (the factory installed one) ate it about two weeks ago. The second one, would overcharge/undercharge and failed 8 or so days ago.

This third alternator, was installed on tuesday, and just gave up last night.

The wires coming from the alternator (the big two and the skinny third) were cut and lengthened. The battery is not a "truck battery" by which i mean it doesn't fit in the tray properly and the terminals are on the reverse of the battery. (Negative faces towards the front on the passenger, positive faces towards the front onto the drivers side)

The car battery has a 700cca instead of 750, which is what the original had. The connector to the alternator is pretty rusty but should cause the alternator to perform erratically, right?

 

The 2g alternator (which is what that truck has) were known for being problematic because of rot and corrosion on that main connector. You can buy a new connector to splice in, but your best bet would be to do a conversion to a 3g alternator.

 

Yeah, I do understand that the 3g conversion is probably the best choice, but I currently just want it to work, you know?

I know there are several writeups but I just want it to be plug and play, and have it work for as long, or LONGER than the stock alternator!

 

bumping for other solutions

 

If you are going to stay with your current setup for now, I would replace the connector which attach to the alternator. You may have done it already but didn't mention it.I know many replacement alternators come with a new connector to validate the warranty. It is a big issue and you stated yours is rusty, so that's where I would start. Solder the leads and use shrink tubing and you should be fine.I did it over 20 years ago with a new alternator (2G) and that alternator hasn't failed since.

 

The 3G is PnP, if you get its harness. Depending on exactly what alternator it has now, you may also need to swap the mounting bracket, which is relatively easy.

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Don't waste the time or effort installing the 95A - there is no reason NOT to install the 130A version:

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No alternator will work correctly through rust or corrosion; not on the main output stud, on its mounting surfaces, OR on the battery terminals.

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If you want specific advice on your current situation, post good pics.
​​​​​​​http://www.supermotors.net/forums/th...-and-or-videos

 

Thank you steve, I will head out to the junkyard on friday and look for a 3g alternator with the right harness. This is certainly the easier and better solution than splicing wires I don't know anything about.

 

In the middle of my search for an alternator, I stumbled upon this 3g swap. https://alternatorparts.com/ford-3g-...e-upgrade.html

I'm not sure if the charge wires on the 2g (the black ones from the big black connector) are up to the task, as everyone else seems to do an inline fuse to the positive on the starter solenoid.

That step-by-step did however answer my question of where the stator plug comes from.

Anyone have any input on this?

 

If you want to learn how the alternator works, read this caption & follow the links in it:

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This one explains the harness construction:

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It's been a month but what I ended up doing is returning the junkozone alternator and going to AAP, and picking one up. Been working "great" ever since! (as great as you can hope for 75 amps anyway)

I spliced together the original wires with the alternator's supplied wires (without the burning connector).

Thanks for all your help.