changing the dash
For those who have a tach but desire a tach, you can go to the boneyard or Ebay like I did and get yourself a same dash but with a tach. Most likely out of a Bronco or f250, don't matter so long as it is same year or body style and engine. The factory already has the wiring in the harness so no need to get crazy with wiring. First thing to do is remove the steering wheel, if you did't follow the other threads look here https://www.f150forum.com/f10/dash-c...rite-up-46960/
Once that's done, pop of the cover one the dash to expose the 2 screw that hold the dash cover on
Then carefully remove the clips at the top of the dash cover and remove. you 'll need to disconnect the wiring at the back of the fuel switch and 4x4 switch(if equipped)I found it was easier to remove the top of the column cover but to do this you need to remove the lock cylinder, not a big deal but you need to know, that the key must be in the run position or unlock position and then press in this little pin 
after that you can remove the screws that hold the IP in the truck and wiggle it out. Carefully disco the wiring on the back of the IP. After that if you have and automatic truck, you'll, need to disco the gear indicator. It's just a white cable that goes to the lock side of the column. You need to unscrew the adjuster but pay attention, to how far it's threaded to get you in the ball park once you reassemble
and pop off the end of the cable on this pin
then remove the dash from the truck.Now on mine the guy I bought it from cut the cable for the gear indicator so i had to swap mine over. No big deal, two screws. Make sure the speedo is at zero before putting the glass back on and before you install in dash. Also to note the memory on these trucks is help in the IP, not the CPU, so I gained 25k on my truck in an hour. Went from 210k to 235k.Installation is reverse of removal. Have fun winding it up!
Once that's done, pop of the cover one the dash to expose the 2 screw that hold the dash cover on

Then carefully remove the clips at the top of the dash cover and remove. you 'll need to disconnect the wiring at the back of the fuel switch and 4x4 switch(if equipped)I found it was easier to remove the top of the column cover but to do this you need to remove the lock cylinder, not a big deal but you need to know, that the key must be in the run position or unlock position and then press in this little pin 
after that you can remove the screws that hold the IP in the truck and wiggle it out. Carefully disco the wiring on the back of the IP. After that if you have and automatic truck, you'll, need to disco the gear indicator. It's just a white cable that goes to the lock side of the column. You need to unscrew the adjuster but pay attention, to how far it's threaded to get you in the ball park once you reassemble
and pop off the end of the cable on this pin
then remove the dash from the truck.Now on mine the guy I bought it from cut the cable for the gear indicator so i had to swap mine over. No big deal, two screws. Make sure the speedo is at zero before putting the glass back on and before you install in dash. Also to note the memory on these trucks is help in the IP, not the CPU, so I gained 25k on my truck in an hour. Went from 210k to 235k.Installation is reverse of removal. Have fun winding it up!
You don't have to pull the steering wheel to get the cluster out. I've pulled my twice, never pulled the steering wheel....
Also, you don't have to "add" miles to your truck, you can rebuild your cluster with the tach and aux gauges from the donor cluster....
Also, you don't have to "add" miles to your truck, you can rebuild your cluster with the tach and aux gauges from the donor cluster....
True when I did the write ups, I was doing the clock spring, a new wheel, MF switch and the cluster. So I did everything at the same time.



