I changed out the brake pads in my '93 Xlt quite easily but I dont believe I bled them correctly. Whenever I try and hit the brake there is no feedback until the pedal is on the ground. I believe there is some air in the brake lines but how would I correctly go about bleeding them?

 

Bleeding the brakes should really only be required if the hydraulic system is opened up - such as with replacing calipers (front), wheel cylinders (rear), the master cylinder, etc.

I use a one-man bleeder by Lisle - starting at the furthest point (right-rear) and working my way to the nearest point (left front) with respect to the master cylinder. At each point, I go until no bubbles are seen, and the fluid runs clear again - accomplishing a fluid change in the process. Takes about 2-3 quarts of fluid and a lot of care to be sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry in the process.

If you changed the front pads only and didn't open the hydraulic system - not understanding how your pedal hasn't come back. A master cylinder problem may be one reason, but I recommend to focus on what you did, versus the likelihood of a part failing coincidentally at the same time you were doing the work.

If you changed the calipers - make sure the bleed port is on the top. The left and right sides will physically interchange, but an error will put the bleed port at the bottom of the piston cylinder, making for a real head-scratcher - voice of experience here :-)

If you changed the rear shoes, then suspect the star adjuster needs to be dialed in closer first (can reach it through the backing plate). Afterwards, back up and down the street, stomping on the brakes to finish up the auto-adjustment.

 

brake bleeding is easily dont with a helper. have your helper pump the brake pedal 3 times then hold it depressed, while it is depressed you crack open the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder or caliper, dont let them release pressure until you have retightened the bleeder. repeat this process untill you see only clean liquid come out of the bleeder with no bubbles.

if you have a soft pedal, i would reccomend a 4 wheel bleed. you start with the right rear wheel, left rear right front, then left front.

dont be stingy with the penetrating oil on the bleeders, your truck is 18 years old you know! also make sure you top off you master cylinder before you start and when you get done ( use only DOT 3 brake fluid)

edit: NINJA'D

 

Yeah I only changed the front pads, in the process though one of the bleeder screws snapped. So it may have sat there open for awhile while I got a new one... Thanks for the help!

 

Thats what did it !!

 

I have done everything. I've bled the brakes a total of 4 times, checked brake lines, vacuum, connections everything. Still no improvement whatsoever. So now I'm starting to think the master cylinder is bad or some other major part is bad. Any ideas?

 

I bled my brakes and after it did the same thing as yours. At the alignment shop today, the guy noticed the drops and said it looked like it was coming from the master cylinder, i popped the hood and yep its leaking. Just look over your brake master cylinder and booster, you'll most likely find a problem.