To remove the bed from my 95 I worked from the top side, using a 4" grinder I ground the bolt heads off and punched them through to the bottom. I noticed these are not a simple carriage head style bolt, but with what appears to have somewhat of an egg shaped shoulder just under the head. Do I need to have exact replacement bolts for putting things back together? What have others done in this case?

 

The shape is to hold the bolt up top so one person can take the bolt off from the bottom, plus it acts as a spacer for the channel. I replaced mine with stainless hardware. I used stainless carriage bolts, honed stainless washers to clear the square of the carriage bolt and get the top bearing surface diameter the same as the factory head (standard carriage heads are a bit smaller than the factory head), and stainless spring nuts. I also used a couple vinyl step covers, cut squares out of them to use at the mounting points to keep the bed metal from directly contacting the frame.

The bolts are about 100 dollars a set from the dealer, and I did the stainless carriage for about 22 dollars if I recall correctly. Graded bolts will work fine too, but stainless will make the next time the bed has to be lifted alot easier in my opinion. I ordered mine from mcmaster carr because I wanted the larger washer, and a cupped spring nut with teeth under the cup. I believe the size is 9/16. I had an extra so I could measure and verify if needed.

Some people mention they don't like stainless because it its harder than the metal its securing and galls it, but so was the grade 8 bolt so I saw more benefits long term in the stainless. Mine didn't gaul, it just tightened up fine, and looks good too.

 

Sorry to ask this but is there anything else to unbolt when taking the bed off other than those cuz i want to do it on my 93 to clean and undercoat!!!!

 

6 bed bolts and you have to either remove the filler neck from the bed (3 screws per tank), or opt to loosen the hose clamp running from the tank to the filler. I recommend removing the bumper if you have good paint, its easy to scratch the back quarters during removal, or re-installation.

You will also have to disconnect the taillights, or take out the tail lights, and snake the cable out of the rear channel if someone straightwired and did away with the connector due to corrosion issues.

 

I wouldn't waste money on undercoating either, that stuff is bad for frames. If you are going to clean it, spend 30 dollars on a quart of por-15. You will not regret it. Undercoating is really only good on top of good paint for sound deadening, and chip protection in my opinion.

 

Actually stainless hardware is usually softer than grade 5 hardware. I used it when I built Zamboni ice resurfacerers for obvious water exposure reasons. They also tend to bind when assembled and exposed to weather. It's a good idea to use antisieze on stainless. Also never mix stainless bolts with with nuts of other metals. They are prone to electrolysis.

 

nice por-15 it then can i undercoat on top of it to protect or just leave it like that???? and thanks for the tip guys!!!!!

 

I don't intend to pull the bed off again, so stainless isn't a big draw for me. But it sure is much easier working on things with bed off. And NO to spraying undercoating on? I'd clean as best as I could,(maybe use a de-scaler) shoot some primer on things and spray er down good with undercoating. What makes it 'bad' for frames? Flake loose and allow moisture to get trapped? Never heard of the por-15. Need to Google it and find out more.

 

I don't plan to take mine off again either, I think graded bolts are about the same price due to the size and length. What makes undecoating bad is it traps moisture, and its not an enamel. Undercoating is ok for the bottoms of gas tanks and wheel wheels and as a sound deadner.
jasco prep and prime is a good prep step on an old frame (6-8 dollars at most hardware stores). It will convert the left over rust over to another compound effectively "Killing" it. A 2 part primer is the best for a frame, or POR-15. I didn't buy into all the por-15 hype till I used it myself, I favored a 2 step epoxy and topcoat. Its some pretty tuff stuff, just have to use a little at a time or it will become to hard to brush on before you get to use it all. Its moisture cure like gorilla glue is, so once it hits air you have about 45 minutes, and in a few hours is hard. If you do it buy a few cheap chip brushes, cause they will never come clean.

 

I figure since the bed is off and things are easy to get to I'd descale as best as I can and cover it with something. I'm not going to pull the various brake and gas lines off to do this....or maybe some if they come off easy enough. Just thinking I should coat things with something since it's so accessible.