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Ball joint replacement

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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 02:19 PM
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Default Ball joint replacement

Hey guys so I need new ball joints in my 95. It has 4wd. Is this something I can do myself or with a couple buddys? I am on a college budget so I cant afford a shop to do it. I was planning on putting moogs in. Im just not keen on pulling the axle out of the pumpkin. Anything else I should replace while Im there? (axle joints) seals, bearings, ect?
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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You'll need an alignment after. You shouldn't have to remove the axles. You will want to get a ball joint removal tool, maybe on a loan a tool deal. Some heat would be a big help as things like spindle bolts can sometimes be very stubborn. You should read all the posts you can find and watch whatever utube videos you can find first so you can have a really good understanding of what you will be doing.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 02:48 PM
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I have access to a press. I watched a few videos and they show you have to remove the axles.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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I won't argue with them then. The right hand (passenger) shaft should come apart at the rubber boot (slip joint) as that should be a 2 piece shaft ? The left should just pull out and slip back in (being careful with the seal). That's how it works on the Dana 35 - the 44 should be similar.
You will need a new clamp for the rubber boot around the slip joint
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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Okay, otherwise a shop quoted me at 750. Is that expensive or no?
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 05:12 PM
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Ball joints are fairly simple. 3lb hammer, impact wrench, ball joint press/remover. Wheel bearings are a good idea, for that you will need a chase. I just removed the spindle (3lb hammer and impact wrench was all I used besides a ratchet) pressed the old two out and pressed the new ones in. Did both the inner and outer bearings. Took about 3-4 hours for one side by myself, still waiting for some down time to do the other side. I was told you don't need an alignment because you just unhook the tie rod and don't actually mess with anything, just mark the bolts before you remove and re-tighten to the mark. 4x4 may be different, don't know, but I would think you should not have to remove the axle.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 05:14 PM
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As for $750, here $85/hr is what most places charge + parts. 8 hours at $85 = $680 if you use your parts.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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The point of getting the alignment done is because the caster and camber is adjusted through the upper ball joint. Its also just a good idea to after any steering part gets replaced.
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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This would be a good time to put to replace the seals for the bearings that you have to take the spindle off to get at (what your stub shafts ride in) and regrease or replace those bearings and of course you'll want to repack your main wheel bearings and put new seals there as well (back side of the rotor hub)
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 11:23 PM
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when I did ball joints I had the tie rod ends replaced as well
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