Car has no codes at all. Brand new EGR Valve, EVP Sensor, Vacuum lines, and IAC due to previous codes. Timing is on point. New O2 Sensor too. I think my TPS Sensor is bad for a few reasons:

The car had a TPS code when I first got it. Previous owner told me he cleaned it out, which is a big no-no. Code never came back after clearing though.
Long Crank. Slightly Rough Idle.
Throttle body stays stuck open for 5 seconds after letting off throttle. Causes revs to go up when shifting.
Slight lack of power.

How long does it take for a TPS code to register in the car's computer? I've been disconnecting the car's battery on and off, due to repairs, and haven't really driven it more than like 15 miles without disconnecting the battery.
I'm going to test the TPS later today when I get the chance.

 

Just tested tps. Ground shows 7.2 volts and power shows 0 volts. Guess I have my culprit.

 

No power? Tells me it isn't the TPS sensor . That sensor is no different than a volume control on an old tv or radio. You can check its continuity and its integrity by checking resistance while slowly working the throttle. It will either be completely open or there will be "dead spots" observed while working the throttle and observing the resistance with your ohm meter..Likely is a wiring issue or you have your meter connected incorrectly.

 

How does my ground voltage look? Too high? What should I test in my wiring?

 

Okay, so apparently I didn't follow the proper testing procedures. I was following an online article. I tested it again following the procedures outlined in the Haynes Manual. VREF was good. TPS and return voltage behaved properly (0.7 closed, 4.5 WOT).

However, my resistance seems out of range. I used the 20k setting (the one below that was 2k) and I got a result of 3.5k for close, and 450 WOT. So, my second resistance was wrong. My issues driving issues have almost always been with applying throttle.

 

My resistance at WOT was inconsistent. It would jump around from 450 to 480.

 

I would be checking fuel pressure before suspecting a bad TPS. I never encountered a bad one with any of my Fords in the 30+ years of owning them.When they go bad, there will be a dead spot where resistance will indicate an open circuit.

 

It's not fuel pressure. You can physically feel the throttle valve close 5 seconds after letting off the throttle, which is obviously quite the late response. Either the TB is bad, or TPS is bad. And I doubt it's TB. TPS has an out of range resistance on WOT, which to me would indicate that it is internally worn or damaged. It is original and the car is sitting at 150k miles.
One other thing to bare in mind is that the car had a TPS code when I first got it, and the previous owner said he cleaned it out.