You really can't, but auto parts stores loan them out, pay and then get refund. to tired to go over codes right now but if no one else has by the morning I'll post again.

 

No you won't. Dump in front of the right rear is fine. In fact, if your stock pipe is in good condition, it contains all of the bends necessary to do your side dump. All you have to do is cut and weld or clamp.

Duals on the 300?

Allot of us run the factory cats minus the muffler dumped in front of the right rear wheel. Better flow, very quiet. Running duals on the 300 is a waste and will hurt performance and fuel mileage. You'll have to add a cross pipe for proper scavenging and I'm not sure that works on the 300 with both pipes side by side within inches of each other. DO NOT increase pipe diameter on the 300. It's designed for the stock pipe diameter for the best combination of torque and hp. You'll lose torque increasing pipe size on the 300. Just scanning through, hope I didn't miss it, but I did not see anyone suggest Seafoaming the intake and fuel system. It DOES reduce carbon build up and help performance. I would get an extra plug or two when you do the Seafoam in case you foul a plug. I never have. Lot's of upgrades on the cheap for the 300. Number one is the Electric Fans. Dump the stock mechanical and go with a set of Chrysler of Ford electrics. Can be had for as little as $25 at a salvage yard. As little as $100 brand new. Advanced Auto has the fan controller for $18. A couple of relays and heavy gauge wires and for less than $50 you've added (Regained) 15-20hp. Faster warm ups, which is always a plus and the fans do not run except at idle for the most part. Search the forum for efan swap.re is a ton of room under the hood of 300. The engine bay can be cleaned up increasing air flow around the engine and allows for easier spotting of oil leaks and other problems such as broken vacuum lines. You can also relocate the vacuum canister and build a new smog pump muffler to clean up under the hood and make room for other things.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/vacuum...162114/index2/
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/smog-p...lencer-160471/

Electric Fan Swap - https://www.f150forum.com/f10/electr...light=fan+swap

 

also when i scanned my truck after the WOT it kept idlin up and down for about 10 sec but if the tester is unhooked it doesnt do that also what could my problem be if the codes end up not being my problem

 

327- EGR feedback signal is/was low – EVR or PFE
334- EVP sensor is/was high – EVR
311- AIR not working
411- ISC (idle too high)
565-Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure – Solenoids

Check and clean your EGR and EVP connectors and ensure wiring isn't damaged
Idle speed controller (IAC) needs tested, can be cleaned but may need replaced.
AIR needs checked
Probably need to replace the purge solenoid

^Follow this order do one thing at a time, the first two can be done together, after each step start to pull codes with a jumper wire (paper clip) and as soon as they start blinking pull the wire out to clear the codes, take it for a drive (just run an errand or something so you aren't "wasting gas") then pull codes. If that actions code doesn't come back move on, if it does then more steps are needed. After completing the 3rd step it wouldn't surprise me if the 4th corrects itself.

 

Really? Mine is in the stock location behind the rear tire and with the passenger window down I was constantly getting exhaust blown back into the cab depending on wind direction. It wasn't bad, and my exhaust doesn't smell rich or like eggs, but I could still smell it occasionally. This is why I said that because I figured the closer it is the more will come in. It wasn't ever overpowering but it was noticeable.

 

where is the purge solenoid and ill start on it tomorrow

 

Find the canister, about size of a large coffee can, may be under the hood, tucked over on a fender apron, it's usually pretty seeable. Once found, you will see it has several tubes/hoses entering into it. One would be a tube line back to the fuel tank.
Another tube from the canister will go to the canister solenoid, your lurking culprit. It may be mounted alone, or along with one or two other solenoids together. Once you trace that tube from the can to the correct solenoid, you will see that the solenoid has another tube going from it to the intake manifold somewhere, where there is engine vacuum. When the engine is running, the computer electrically turns the can solenoid "ON", allowing vapors stored in the can to be burned in the engine. When eng. is "OFF", solenoid is closed, to trap the vapors contained in it, the vapor line from the fuel tank, and the empty space above the fuel in the tank.

Thing is that this code may be generated by the other systems not working correctly so it should be the last one addressed.

 

Fltdriver is dead on with his advise. I would add to check for a vacuum leak. Reason I say this I had a cam with low vacuum and it would throw egr code always followed by canister purge. Takes a lot of vacuum to run evr/egr system properly and can be first code that shows up with a vacuum problem. The causes of low vacuum can be numerous, even restricted exhaust can cause it.

 

You want your truck running at the proper operating temperature all the time to get the best fuel economy. For your truck, it is around 195 degrees. When you are running cold, it is putting more gas to your engine and thus, your fuel economy is going down. It also should not be overheating. If you have a bad sensor, that also could be giving your computer a bad reading and therefore, pumping more gas to your engine than the amount needed. As a result, you should check the cooling system

 

ok the coffee can thing has 2 hoses that run around the motor one goes to a spot next to some sensors and then the other hooks on then goes to the egr the only thing i can find that has one goin to gas tank then to the purge solenoid and then to the intake is the charcol cannister thing which is down next to the radiator