After replacing a master cylinder? I always did it the hard way with a wrench on the bleeder screw one wheel at a time. There has gotta be a better way

 

You need to bench bleed the master cylinder first or you'll be in for a long day. Go right rear-left front-left rear-right front. tool stores sells a hand vacuum pump that will eliminate the 2nd person. The better way is to pay somebody else to do it for you.

 

After many brake projects I would suggest the vacuum , or better yet, pay someone. It can be frustrating and a bitch to do yourself.

 

He's got other problems on a different post. Needs to buy a manual or pay somebody to get it right.

 

I agree that sometimes doing it yourself will bite you in the butt, however with shop rates at or above $100 per hour one can afford to replace an unnecessary part or two before getting it right. It was an educated guess the caliper was sticking as that is the case the majority of the time.

For what it's worth to you, I do have a manual.

 

They have come out with a replacement bleeder screw that has a check valve built into it.

All you have to do is bench bleed the master then open the bleeders one at a time like you regularly do. Put a hose from them to a container and pump the brakes it lets the fluid out but keeps air from entering the system.

You just have to make sure the master stays full. I hadn't tried them yet but they look interesting.

Also if they are original you might want to replace the rubber lines going to the calipers over time they get soft on the inside not letting the caliper fully release.

 

The bleeder screw with a check is sweet but the part listing in most places for the front calipers is incorrect ... at least on a 94. They're a bit pricey too.

Bleeding the brakes by yourself really isn't all that bad.

Look at the master cylinder. Follow the lines down. There's a chance that one goes to the back and splits to the left & right wheels. The other line will come down and go to the front splitting at the driver's side hose tee.

If it's set up this way then you wouldn't bleed diagonally. I think it's the closest point first ? That means the order would be driver's side front, passenger side front,driver's side rear,& then passenger side rear.

If your new caliper is still hanging up brake hoses are a possibility.

Another thing is to make sure that you get a new hardware kit along with a new caliper. A perfectly good floating caliper can get hung up on an old caliper bolt. Cleaning the old bolt & a lube with never seize doesn't seem to help for some reason. The best option seems to be replacement.

Last thing to watch for ... bleeder screws on a (new) rebuilt caliper that won't close off even when fully screwed in. Just had that happen on a Raybestos a couple of weeks ago and the only solution, aside from a return, was to hard solder a bleeder and install it like a plug.

 

Thanks for the info! I've often threatened to pick up one of the vacuum kits at Harbor Freight, but just never did darn it! Looked up the speed bleeders as they call them. $13.95 per pair for the front and $18.99 for the rear. Kinda pricy, but certainly a neat item!
You only let the resevoir run dry one time and you tend to remember to never do that again .

The line suggestion is a good one though. I know Chevy has problems with them collapsing, but never heard of Ford having an issue with them.

 

My only tip is if you can't get good pedal, put on the parking brake, then try the pedal, if its higher and harder, re adjust your rear brakes and try again.

 

It had good pedal before the caliper issue and after installing the new one and bleeding it is still good