I know we are all probably getting tired of seeing these A/C threads in the summer, so I do apologize for that. So here it goes...

I bought my truck last year when it was cold out so I couldn't really see if the air conditioning worked or not. Once it started getting warm out I figured out pretty quick that it didn't. I have done A/C work on my cars before but was somewhat stumped by the high side port on my 96 F150. Instead of having a typical schrader valve type connector, it has what appears to be a small black rubber ball in the connector. Is this normal? I am only concerned that when I hook up the gauges this will not give me a proper high side reading. The low side connector does look normal though with the typical middle part that gets pushed in. I will include pics of the high and low side at the end of the post.

So here is the plan. If I can use this high side connector I plan to pull a vacuum on it for a while then see if it holds. If it does hold I plan to charge it with a couple of cans of R134 and see what happens. If the vacuum doesn't hold, I will use a can of R134 with UV dye to find my leak and repair it. From what I have read searching on the forum is that a full charge on this system is 2 lbs, 6 ounces (38 ounces.) The compressor appears to be in good shape and is able to be spun by hand, not seized up. Does this procedure sound right?

Thanks!

Here are the pics of the high side port(by the condenser) and the low side port (by the dryer/accumulator)

 

as far as i know this trucks are originally supposed for R12 (mineral oil), not R134 (synth), therefore the whole system is to be cleaned before refilling, just in case. And yes, R12 and R134 systems have different ports. Port adapters should be available.

 

Through the years R-12 to R134a the procedures for conversions have changed. You use to have to change the compressor and dryer then just the dryer now the only thing you need is the conversion fittings.
You'll need to go to a shop and have it done.
Recover
Drain Oil
Vacum
Inject Oil
Charge

Has anyone heard about the new R-1234a? It's mildly flamable!!

 

Thanks for the responses guys. So far everything I have seen through searching says that 95 and 96 trucks are R134 from the factory. Is this not correct?

 

Your truck is 134a, started in '95. That ball looking valve is correct. The system capacity is on a label under the hood somewhere. Your procedure sounds fine.

 

I would not worry about the high side unless you have an issue...I only use it to check pump pressure and orifice spread...

I do everything from the low side....vacuum and install...never had any issue...

 

Thanks again guys. I just wanted to make sure before I started. I wasn't planning on doing anything with the high side port except hooking up to it to read pressures. I was mainly just unsure because it doesn't have a typical looking port like the low side does. I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

One more quick question. How much resistance should I feel when turning the compressor by hand? My compressor has virtually no resistance. I can turn it easily with two fingers. I just replaced the compressor on a Mustang and it was impossible to turn it by hand without an AC clutch tool.

Thanks again guys!

 

You are turning the hub and not the pulley, right? It should have more resistance than that.

 

The rubber ***** is factory correct but they do tend to leak....mine does very very little. I'm assuming you have all the ac equipment since you mentioned vacuuming the system so, pressurize it with air (like a shop air compressor) and spray soapy water everywhere.......if you do come up with a few little leaks there is some badass sealant that comes in a little red bottle and costs around 50 bucks but works phenominal. If no leaks then vacuum it out and fill er up.......