i run lucas oil stuff in my everythings. but any one hear of Marvel Mystery Oil? is it some bull **** or just a hyped up oil stabilzer? same question goes for z-max....... also, should i change the fluid in my manual trans or is that asking for trouble?

 

Sometimes, I wounder why I go the the extremes I do to explain things as best I can. Many times, bordering on a rant. Sometimes it's discouraging when it appears little of it's sticking.......................................Any way, check this out:http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/e...rans_temps.gif (Click on the chart to enlarge). Notice: The slight drop in life expectancy when operated slightly below Normal Operation Temp. This is where Cold start protection becomes a player!

 

Used to use M/M oil, but so long ago, I forgot why. I think the products usefulness has been ecliped by superior lubricants since. Don't know about Z-max, but 10 yrs. ago I used Prolong in a beater delivery truck. Dropped it off for a tune, and for some reason, they also drained the oil, replaced the plug & gave it back to me. 70 miles later, I checked the oil because it was running a little warm. Not a drop of oil. The truck had 100k at the time & I put 75K more on it & sold it running. Don't really know what to make of that, but decided lubrication was very important and started switching everything to synthetic. Couldn't really raise a lot of hell w/ the shop, after they replaced the oil, it ran too good. Nothing really to show for damages! Not changing your fluid is asking for trouble!

 

Interesting chart with bearing temps and oil temps at the pan. How much of a difference would a oil cooling kit have on bearing life expectancy?

 

Here is what I have experienced:

Always used regular dino in my cars until my wife's first new one in 2003. Started using Mobil 1 in it at about 10K. That worked fine until we moved from Texas to PA. Then lowest winter temps went from 25 F to 5 F and that 20 degrees is a big difference.

When I started driving the same car above in May of 08, I started noticing when the temps were down below 20 there was quite a bit of valve rattle on start up. January oil change was the last for the M1 and took the leap into the Royal Purple full synthetic pool. Never looking back... There is zero valve noise on start up, even one day when the temp was about 1 above. Excellent stuff.

When I get the clutch replaced in my '93 F150, I will probably refill the tranny with RP's synth tranny fluid - if it is half as good as the oil then I will have no worries...

Also want to ad - I drove a 1974 AMC Gremlin 100,000 miles on nothing but Havoline dino and Fram filters. When it was torn down it still did not have a ring groove and my father said when he was in his teens they would have reused all the bearings because they looked so good...

 

Take a pan temp under load conditions, if your above the sweetspot, a cooling kit might be a good idea. It's easier to keep hi temps from occuring, than it is to reduce the temps once they have elevated.

 

I've been using M1 for the last 8K. w/ Lucas Synth. oil Stalilizer for that reason. Cold start protection. From what I read, R/P has addressed this in their formulation. I set 8k as my change time,& my oil still looks so good. But, it's what you don't see that can also cause problems, so I guess it's time to try R/P, again w/ an extended mileage filter. I'm going to say this cause it's true. AMC Gremlins were bullet proof cars. I had friend w/ an 8 cylinder in one (way too much engine) and we put that thing though hell. If he hadn't wrapped it around a tree, it would probably still be out there somewhere. Ugly, but out there.

 

Gremlin I had was equipped with the 258 I6 and straight 3sp. It was always funny to watch people's faces when I would pass them going up the Harbor Bridge in Corpus Christi (pretty steep grade) and gaining speed the entire time. Motor had enough torque to sheer off a key-way in one of the rear drums...and was light enough to push it onto the nearest parking lot...but you are correct...it had a face only a mother could love.

 

In trying to keep this thread from derailing...


Would you still use an oil stabilizer with RP? I am switching to RP and if it's not needed I'll skip the Lucas Oil Oil Stabilizer. Your Thoughts?


(I'd rather this thread not becomea Dino vs. Synthetic thread. Additives only please.)

 

I have RP in my 300-6 and it now has 20k on the change...NO additive and it looks just like the day after I put it in...right after the Purple goes away...still see thru and clear..

Not bad for 20,000 miles on an oil change...