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how much is clearance requiring? 1 inch? 2 inches? cut it off and flare the remaining stub, use a new hose (might need one anyway)
Otherwise you can buy the right waterpump you may be using one from a 94+ with a different bracket and fan
Youll know if you have th right year range if your fan clutch will thread on (if original)
the fan clutch does thread on fine. I think it’s just bent at slightly the wrong angle. Three of the bolt holes are about a quarter inch off when i try to line it up. I’ll try bending it just slightly and see if i can get it on.
the fan clutch does thread on fine. I think it’s just bent at slightly the wrong angle. Three of the bolt holes are about a quarter inch off when i try to line it up. I’ll try bending it just slightly and see if i can get it on.
then I would try rotating the pipe. The bolt holes being off is a bad sign. The pipes should be press fit. You also can do what I said and cut it. But a formed ferrule or flare in order to hold a hose is wise and you would need abrasion protection where the hose snakes up the engine by the bracket
then I would try rotating the pipe. The bolt holes being off is a bad sign. The pipes should be press fit. You also can do what I said and cut it. But a formed ferrule or flare in order to hold a hose is wise and you would need abrasion protection where the hose snakes up the engine by the bracket
I’m going to try cutting it with a hack saw guess. I’m not familiar with flaring. I saw autozone has some tools called single flare kit or double flare kit, is it one of those? Also what would i use for abrasion protection?
thanks!
I’m going to try cutting it with a hack saw guess. I’m not familiar with flaring. I saw autozone has some tools called single flare kit or double flare kit, is it one of those? Also what would i use for abrasion protection?
thanks!
I would not cut it. Without a bubble type flare on the pipe, you likely will have a leak and will void any warranty. If you cannot get it to fit, return it and try buying another brand elsewhere.I have done these pumps many times and at most I had to do some minor bending. This shouldn't be such a big deal to replace.1-1.5 hours tops to replace it. Like I said before, try a remanufactured pump because you know that it once worked and a new Chinese made pump can have fit issues. I don't know why you are so hung up trying to get that pump to fit. If you have a Napa store, try buying it there and stay clear from Autozone junk. .
The remanufacturer just pressed the heater hose pipe back into the pump, indexed wrong?
I would only fight if for about a hundred hours before comparing it to the old pump
Matching it up (the part) is one of the Cardinal rules of mechanics
After about a hundred hours, I'd just cut the pipe off (all but about 2 inches) and use a longer heater hose and a hose clamp back behind the alternator bracket
I would not cut it. Without a bubble type flare on the pipe, you likely will have a leak and will void any warranty. If you cannot get it to fit, return it and try buying another brand elsewhere.I have done these pumps many times and at most I had to do some minor bending. This shouldn't be such a big deal to replace.1-1.5 hours tops to replace it. Like I said before, try a remanufactured pump because you know that it once worked and a new Chinese made pump can have fit issues. I don't know why you are so hung up trying to get that pump to fit. If you have a Napa store, try buying it there and stay clear from Autozone junk. .
it can be cut if you put a flare or a ferrule on it . I defintiely would NOT trust the output to the heater core (or was it the return) to have a hose without a barb of some kind.
Most people wont have the tools to make a ferrule or a flare but a hydraulic hose builder (some auto part store) can probably do that with their tools that make the hard section of pipes between rubber hose sections
I’m going to try cutting it with a hack saw guess. I’m not familiar with flaring. I saw autozone has some tools called single flare kit or double flare kit, is it one of those? Also what would i use for abrasion protection?
thanks!
definitely dont cut first, figure it out 2nd
Figure it out first, then do it. you need to find a tool that can put it on a pipe that size. you would just need a simple flare if you could make one that large with one of those (i dont think so?) and make sure its not sharp
I posted in the drivetrain thread, but thought it might get more responses here.
I’m trying to fit a new water pump on my 1992 4.9L F150. The brass pipe that attaches to the heater line is getting in the way, getting blocked by this housing surrounding the alternator. I can’t get the bolt holes to line up. Has anyone run into this problem?
I had the same issue in ~2016 with an aftermarket water pump. The flange on the alternator doesn't allow the pipe to set where it needs to, nor does it allow it the housing to bolt to the engine, at least without not cracking it. As others have said, it seems to be indexed wrong.
I initially tried to move the pipe, and yep, ruined the seal and had to get a new one. The second one was built the same way as the first one. The fix is to either grind or Dremel the flange in the area where the pipe routes. It doesn't do anything to the alternator or affect the form, fit or function. There is just enough area such that the pipe does not even lay on the alternator support.
Here's the area I'm talking about. This is not my image, but it's the same issue. The pipe is basically turned inward into the image, and by doing so it butts up against that small flange area identified by the blue arrow. I just ground off a very small area to allow the pipe to set almost against the support.
This has gone on way too long for such a simple problem, trying to get the square peg into the round hole.. Can't believe the OP hasn't returned the pump and tried another brand or source by now. If a simple bend (not twist) won't do it I'd return it. I certainly wouldn't go cutting and butchering a pump to fit.