1995 engine questions
Hello, I am new to the forum. I put a post in the introductions section and I posted this question in the general section which I guess was the wrong one. Anyway....
I have a few questions..
1995 F150 Automatic with the 5.0 302 in it. 2WD. It has 185K on the clock.
I just did a complete tune up on the truck. This included plugs, rotor, cap, PCV valve, air filter, cleaned throttle body, oil and filter and a new serpentine belt.
Here are the minor problems I am having with the truck.
Since replacing the serpentine belt (yesterday) it squeals. I noticed that when I moved the belt tensioner to get the old belt off it wasn't springy. I move it to loosen the belt and it stayed in that position. I put on the new belt and I moved it back into position so the belt is tight. I have a feeling the belt tensioner is shot. Can it be lubed?
Also... before I tuned the truck up I noticed a weird thing with the idle.
I start the truck up (it starts up immediately) and it goes to fast idle. Soon after it kicks down and sometimes it stalls. I restart it and the motor starts "hunting" for an idle. It increases and decreases automatically as if somebody is throttling up and down. If I give it some gas and gradually let off the throttle it will return to normal and stop hunting. If I let off the throttle immediately the idle drops down to around 400rpms and then immediately jumps back up to around 750 and starts hunting again.
From what I read this seems to be a dirty or faulty IACV. Can the IACV be cleaned? Do I need to replace the gasket on it once its removed?
Lastly, the motor runs excellent, has tremendous power, is dead on dependable but the oil pressure gauge reads really low. It barely comes off the first line. I raises a little as the truck is running but it barely comes off that first line. I read online that Ford trucks are known to have oil pressure on the low side. Just checking. I guess it could possibly be a worn out or faulty oil pressure sending unit.
Thanks! John G
I have a few questions..
1995 F150 Automatic with the 5.0 302 in it. 2WD. It has 185K on the clock.
I just did a complete tune up on the truck. This included plugs, rotor, cap, PCV valve, air filter, cleaned throttle body, oil and filter and a new serpentine belt.
Here are the minor problems I am having with the truck.
Since replacing the serpentine belt (yesterday) it squeals. I noticed that when I moved the belt tensioner to get the old belt off it wasn't springy. I move it to loosen the belt and it stayed in that position. I put on the new belt and I moved it back into position so the belt is tight. I have a feeling the belt tensioner is shot. Can it be lubed?
Also... before I tuned the truck up I noticed a weird thing with the idle.
I start the truck up (it starts up immediately) and it goes to fast idle. Soon after it kicks down and sometimes it stalls. I restart it and the motor starts "hunting" for an idle. It increases and decreases automatically as if somebody is throttling up and down. If I give it some gas and gradually let off the throttle it will return to normal and stop hunting. If I let off the throttle immediately the idle drops down to around 400rpms and then immediately jumps back up to around 750 and starts hunting again.
From what I read this seems to be a dirty or faulty IACV. Can the IACV be cleaned? Do I need to replace the gasket on it once its removed?
Lastly, the motor runs excellent, has tremendous power, is dead on dependable but the oil pressure gauge reads really low. It barely comes off the first line. I raises a little as the truck is running but it barely comes off that first line. I read online that Ford trucks are known to have oil pressure on the low side. Just checking. I guess it could possibly be a worn out or faulty oil pressure sending unit.
Thanks! John G
I'll try to answer these as best I can since I was in your situation not too long ago.
1. Without knowing the age of the belt tensioner I would still recommend replacing it. I didn't and that was a mistake. It locked up and then threw the belt off. They are inexpensive, relatively accessible and easy to replace.
2. As far as the idle goes, the first thing I would do is retrieve the trouble codes. Even though the check engine light is not on there still could be codes. At the top of this forum there are good instructions on how to do this with a paper clip. You can also buy an inexpensive code reader which isn't necessary but just a bit easier to work with. The next thing I would do is buy a Haynes manual. It's invaluable for helping diagnose issues like these. It's also pretty decent in describing how things work.
3. Yes the IAC can be cleaned. There are also good instructions or a link on this site on how do this. Search for IAC/IAB etc..
4. With the oil pressure issue, the first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. Again, they are cheap and easy to change. After the change if you still have low oil pressure then you know you may have other major issues.
5. I'd also recommend buying and using a product called Sea Foam. It can be added to the fuel or oil and does wonders. There's also a good procedure on this site on how to use Sea Foam.
Lastly, the rule of thumb is to retrieve codes first before you replace, clean, or do any maintenance. You'll get lost and may start changing things that aren't broke.
Hope this helps.
1. Without knowing the age of the belt tensioner I would still recommend replacing it. I didn't and that was a mistake. It locked up and then threw the belt off. They are inexpensive, relatively accessible and easy to replace.
2. As far as the idle goes, the first thing I would do is retrieve the trouble codes. Even though the check engine light is not on there still could be codes. At the top of this forum there are good instructions on how to do this with a paper clip. You can also buy an inexpensive code reader which isn't necessary but just a bit easier to work with. The next thing I would do is buy a Haynes manual. It's invaluable for helping diagnose issues like these. It's also pretty decent in describing how things work.
3. Yes the IAC can be cleaned. There are also good instructions or a link on this site on how do this. Search for IAC/IAB etc..
4. With the oil pressure issue, the first thing I would do is replace the sending unit. Again, they are cheap and easy to change. After the change if you still have low oil pressure then you know you may have other major issues.
5. I'd also recommend buying and using a product called Sea Foam. It can be added to the fuel or oil and does wonders. There's also a good procedure on this site on how to use Sea Foam.
Lastly, the rule of thumb is to retrieve codes first before you replace, clean, or do any maintenance. You'll get lost and may start changing things that aren't broke.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the response. I read the thread regarding checking the codes. Wow.. what a read. I am going to pick up a Haynes manual and attempt the paper clip test. Do you know if my 1995 has a check engine light? I am not sure. Its not on.
Regarding the tensioner, I think it needs replacement. I was surprised when I put the wrench on it and it moved and stayed in position after I moved it. After I replaced the belt I had to move it back. Hopefully this is something I can replace without ripping out the radiator because its cold in Connecticut and I am working outside.
In regards to the idle and the fuel pressure I am going to replace the sending unit and I am sure the IACV is dirty as heck. I bet this truck hasn't been tuned up in a very very long time. The cap, rotor and plugs were pretty worn out. I know the oil was changed regularly.
Regarding the tensioner, I think it needs replacement. I was surprised when I put the wrench on it and it moved and stayed in position after I moved it. After I replaced the belt I had to move it back. Hopefully this is something I can replace without ripping out the radiator because its cold in Connecticut and I am working outside.
In regards to the idle and the fuel pressure I am going to replace the sending unit and I am sure the IACV is dirty as heck. I bet this truck hasn't been tuned up in a very very long time. The cap, rotor and plugs were pretty worn out. I know the oil was changed regularly.
It shouldn't be more than about an hour from start to finnish to change the belt tensioner. No need to remove the radiator. Your 1995 does have a Check Engine Light (CEL). Don't forget the Sea Foam. Sea Foam works wonders.
Good Luck!!!!!
Good Luck!!!!!
Check engine light on my buddy's 95 is on the bottom right of the gauge cluster and his ignition has to be on for about five to ten seconds for it to come on. I did my idler pulley and belt tensioner on my 96 took me about half an hour to do both, if only all my repairs could be so easy...lol
Update...
I removed the IACV this morning, cleaned it out thoroughly with brake cleaner and carb cleaner. It had a ton of caked up carbon in it. When it was spotless I reinstalled it and fired the truck up and it ran for about 15 seconds and stalled. Bummer... I thought!... I fired it back up and it ran perfect. Perfect idle, no hunting, went to slow idle perfect, took it for a ride around the block a few times.. no issues at all. Problem solved.
Cost??? 0 Dollars.
I then checked out the belt tensioner. I put a wrench on it and turned it back and forth a few times. Started the truck and the squeal is totally gone. I still think I need to replace it though. Its not springy and I am not sure how springy it actually should be.
Regarding the oil pressure sending unit. Weird. I started the truck. It showed little to no oil pressure on the gauge in the dash. I took it around the block a few times and had it running for at least 20 minutes and it read just about 0. The needle then suddenly popped up to just below the N in Normal. I am pretty sure its the sending unit. This truck runs great. It can't be an oil pressure problem. I would have replaced it but I need to get a haynes manual to see where it is on my 5.0L motor.
I plan on registering it next week and its going to become my back and forth to the train station truck (I take the train to work) and a very useful work truck for home and for dragging my motorcycles around.
I checked LPC and I am going to order the rear fender patches and weld them in. It looks much easier to do that than repair the rust and rebuild the wheel opening edges. Here is a pic of the truck. I need to get rid of the cap. Seems I can't even give it away!
I removed the IACV this morning, cleaned it out thoroughly with brake cleaner and carb cleaner. It had a ton of caked up carbon in it. When it was spotless I reinstalled it and fired the truck up and it ran for about 15 seconds and stalled. Bummer... I thought!... I fired it back up and it ran perfect. Perfect idle, no hunting, went to slow idle perfect, took it for a ride around the block a few times.. no issues at all. Problem solved.
Cost??? 0 Dollars.
I then checked out the belt tensioner. I put a wrench on it and turned it back and forth a few times. Started the truck and the squeal is totally gone. I still think I need to replace it though. Its not springy and I am not sure how springy it actually should be.
Regarding the oil pressure sending unit. Weird. I started the truck. It showed little to no oil pressure on the gauge in the dash. I took it around the block a few times and had it running for at least 20 minutes and it read just about 0. The needle then suddenly popped up to just below the N in Normal. I am pretty sure its the sending unit. This truck runs great. It can't be an oil pressure problem. I would have replaced it but I need to get a haynes manual to see where it is on my 5.0L motor.
I plan on registering it next week and its going to become my back and forth to the train station truck (I take the train to work) and a very useful work truck for home and for dragging my motorcycles around.
I checked LPC and I am going to order the rear fender patches and weld them in. It looks much easier to do that than repair the rust and rebuild the wheel opening edges. Here is a pic of the truck. I need to get rid of the cap. Seems I can't even give it away!
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It is above your oil filter, or at least on my 89 302 it is. I have a new sensor but just haven't taken the time to replace it. you would need a deep well 1 1/8 socket to replace it.

