I have a high idle and after its hot it wont restart. After the first high idle issue I replaces the TPS and it was fine for a bout 20 miles. I get a 15 or a 51 code. I replace the coil about 2600 miles ago after i put tires on it when it would not restart for the mechanic per the his advice. this van ran a 2600 mile road trip for me and i love it but i need to take in on another but it is killing me. I have built most and repaired all my own cars but this ford in killing me.

 

Welcome to the site!
High idle is a typical indicator of a vacuum leak, suggest to check vacuum hoses. Had an issue where the gasket between the upper and lower intake manifold failed causing a leak - a light spritzing of carb cleaner along the seams should help identify whether this may be an issue. On the other hand, a surging or irregular idle is a sign that the idle air control (IAC) solenoid may need cleaning, as this vintage was prone to fouling.
A 15 code is a problem, as it suggests an internal computer problem. No idea what to do here other than replace...? A 51 code suggests your engine coolant sensor has failed or is unplugged - there are two coolant temp sensors - one for the computer, and one that drives the dashboard gauge - be sure to check the correct one for the computer. This may contribute to your hard hot starts, as the fuel mixture may be enriched anticipating a cold start.
Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

Im way farther down the rabbit hole than a vacuum leak. Ive checked all the easy stuff. I need to get a code reader. When I run the code with a 1. When I did the test for the TPS by unplugging it the idle went to normal. So that is why i changed it. The gauge does say it is running cold. I did change the IAC it was bad. Thank you for all your help. the internet has changed the level of held greatly. back when i was young all you had was a buddy that knew more than you. that was 35 years ago.

 

There was a tip I recall from the Chilton's manual, which I no longer have, about installing the TPS.
IIRC, before the screws are driven down tight, rotate the TPS tight against the screws - I'm thinking it was in a counter-clockwise direction as viewed from the top of the TPS / bottom of the butterfly assembly. There are also voltage specs that can be measured to verify the TPS is set properly and working well.

 

I had the same issue with my truck once it got to running temperature it would just die and not restart for hours or sometimes till the next day. My problem was the ignition coil wire inside the distributor. Once replaced it problem solved. Think cost me around $100 from O'Reillys could be mistaken about price.