can I change the PIP in the truck?
07-31-2013, 12:51 PM
#1
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can I change the PIP in the truck?
I have been having a problem with my 1987 f150 5.0 4x4 dual tanks. The truck will randomly die when driven in hot weather. I work swing shifts so I go in at 9am and get out at 9pm or the other way around. Either way its cooler at those times and I can get to and from work with out problems ( 10 mile drive ). When I drive the truck in the afternoon when the temp is above 90 it will die. I can restart but will only run for 10 seconds or so and die again. I pulled some codes and got 14 33 29. I used a voltmeter and I got 5 single flashes and then 143329 a long pause then 143329. Things I have replaced because I thought it was a fuel issue are eec power relay, fuel pump relay, fuel filter and the high pressuer fuel pump. I am tired of playing "change that part" and any help will be appreciated.
Last edited by deafoneinflorida; 07-31-2013 at 12:54 PM.
07-31-2013, 07:30 PM
#3
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I don't have it in front of me but the Haynes book has a very good diagnostic routine for troubleshooting PIP and ICM.
ICM mounts on the side of the Distributor and are highly subject to heat related failures. So much so, there is a coating of heat sink compound that is supposed to be between the ICM and the dizzy to mitigate heat transfer.
ICM mounts on the side of the Distributor and are highly subject to heat related failures. So much so, there is a coating of heat sink compound that is supposed to be between the ICM and the dizzy to mitigate heat transfer.
08-02-2013, 08:22 PM
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update
I took the ICM to autozone they said it failed on their tester. They tested it twice. Put new ICM on the truck, it ran great. I tried to go for the 10 mile ride after unhooking the battery and only made a mile if that and truck died again. It has spark at the coil and #1 cylinder. I dont have a fuel presser guage but when I pressed on the schrader valve gas came out under pressure. This thing is driving me crazy! Tired of throwing money into NOT fixing it! PLEASE any help would be appreciated.
08-02-2013, 08:49 PM
#5
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Go borrow the fuel pressure test gauge from az and figure out what your fuel pressure is.
I say this because you are saying you have spark "fire" after replacing the ICM and then checking for fire after the engine failed again. Maybe you have multiple problems, this is not unusual on these trucks.
Stop changing parts until you have verified what the most likely suspect is.
I say this because you are saying you have spark "fire" after replacing the ICM and then checking for fire after the engine failed again. Maybe you have multiple problems, this is not unusual on these trucks.
Stop changing parts until you have verified what the most likely suspect is.
Last edited by 5Rangers; 08-02-2013 at 08:54 PM.
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08-02-2013, 09:31 PM
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truck died right in front of pep boys once so had them diagnose they said bad high pressure pump so replaced it, had ICM tested they said it failed so replaced it...the truck will great then die, let it sit overnight and starts right up, any ideas?
Last edited by deafoneinflorida; 08-02-2013 at 09:36 PM.
08-03-2013, 09:20 PM
#10
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You can check your intank pump volume out to make sure its feeding the frame rail pump sufficiently. Its out put should be 6 oz in 5 seconds.
If your output is insufficient you will want to check your volts at the tank connector. It should be at or close to battery voltage, if not, then you have some resistance some where in the circuit dropping volts, thus the pump doesn't run at rated output.
If the pump out is insufficient and the volts are good then there is a problem with the in tank pump.
If your output is insufficient you will want to check your volts at the tank connector. It should be at or close to battery voltage, if not, then you have some resistance some where in the circuit dropping volts, thus the pump doesn't run at rated output.
If the pump out is insufficient and the volts are good then there is a problem with the in tank pump.
Last edited by 5Rangers; 08-03-2013 at 09:48 PM.