How to push past 5000 lbs trailer weight?
#11
You should just trade your truck in for an F250 or f350 and then you could safely pull the travel trailer with excess truck to spare. 9000 lb travel trailers are big. plus people tend to underestimate the weight of all the crap they take when the go glamping.
#13
Especially on the glamping trips, all that glam they add takes a lot of weight! There are those who do camping, and they have a tent. LOL
Sorry couldnt resist the play on words, but in a sense it is true, glammer camping, taking your home with you.
Sorry couldnt resist the play on words, but in a sense it is true, glammer camping, taking your home with you.
#14
First of all - you guys are all amazing. Thanks for the education!
Thanks for the insight! The 2016 Limited does in fact come with the ITBC and the 7-pin connector. What does the enhanced front stabilizer bar do? Is that related to sway control? What about the upgraded bumper?
Thank you all again!
On a 2017 F-150 Limited, receiver hitch is standard, but the rest of the trailer tow pkg is an $895 option. I assume that didn't change since your 2016 model.
Trailer Tow Package $895
The Trailer Tow Package is optional on F-150 XL, XLT,LARIAT, King Ranch®, Platinum, and Limited.
Includes:
• 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver (standard on Limited)
• Pro Trailer Backup Assist (not included on XL Base or Raptor)
• Tailgate LED (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Smart Trailer Tow Connector (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Upgraded front stabilizer bar
Does not include Trailer Tow Mirrors. Trailer Tow Mirrors are a stand-alone option and must be ordered separately.
Also does not include the integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC). ITBC is included with the max tow pkg but not the regular tow pkg, or it can be ordered as a stand-alone option when you order the regular tow pkg. Your Ford dealer can install the trailer tow mirrors and the ITBC if you don't have them. Also A1Auto sells trailer tow mirrors for late-model F-150s.
So what do you need to add to have the equivalent of the regular trailer tow pkg. You already have the receiver. Does your wiring connector include the 7-pin RV plug? If not you gotta add that. Then the main things you need to add are the auxiliary (oil to air) tranny cooler, ITBC, and tow mirrors. Don't even think about towing more than a rowboat without the auxiliary tranny cooler. Aftermarket trailer brake controllers will work, but not nearly as good as the ITBC. And some folks get by without tow mirrors, but they are risking a big bang without those wider mirrors.
Trailer Tow Package $895
The Trailer Tow Package is optional on F-150 XL, XLT,LARIAT, King Ranch®, Platinum, and Limited.
Includes:
• 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver (standard on Limited)
• Pro Trailer Backup Assist (not included on XL Base or Raptor)
• Tailgate LED (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Smart Trailer Tow Connector (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Upgraded front stabilizer bar
Does not include Trailer Tow Mirrors. Trailer Tow Mirrors are a stand-alone option and must be ordered separately.
Also does not include the integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC). ITBC is included with the max tow pkg but not the regular tow pkg, or it can be ordered as a stand-alone option when you order the regular tow pkg. Your Ford dealer can install the trailer tow mirrors and the ITBC if you don't have them. Also A1Auto sells trailer tow mirrors for late-model F-150s.
So what do you need to add to have the equivalent of the regular trailer tow pkg. You already have the receiver. Does your wiring connector include the 7-pin RV plug? If not you gotta add that. Then the main things you need to add are the auxiliary (oil to air) tranny cooler, ITBC, and tow mirrors. Don't even think about towing more than a rowboat without the auxiliary tranny cooler. Aftermarket trailer brake controllers will work, but not nearly as good as the ITBC. And some folks get by without tow mirrors, but they are risking a big bang without those wider mirrors.
Thank you all again!
#15
Grumpy Old Man
Nothing you need to worry about. Not something that would be cost-effective to replace.
The so-called upgraded bumper is part of the max tow pkg, but not the regular tow pkg.
If you get into the parts for the rear bumper, you'll see three different part numbers for the center section of the rear bumper. One is without a receiver, one is for the receiver that is part of the regular tow pkg, and the third is for the receiver that is part of the max tow pkg. The receiver for the max tow pkg bolts to the ends of the bumper whereas the one for the regular tow pkg does not. However, both those receivers are rated for the same weights, so I wouldn't worry about replacing that center section of the rear bumper - again not cost effective.
(I have an MBA from back in the good ole days over 40 years ago, so I'm big on cost effectiveness. )
What about the upgraded bumper?
If you get into the parts for the rear bumper, you'll see three different part numbers for the center section of the rear bumper. One is without a receiver, one is for the receiver that is part of the regular tow pkg, and the third is for the receiver that is part of the max tow pkg. The receiver for the max tow pkg bolts to the ends of the bumper whereas the one for the regular tow pkg does not. However, both those receivers are rated for the same weights, so I wouldn't worry about replacing that center section of the rear bumper - again not cost effective.
(I have an MBA from back in the good ole days over 40 years ago, so I'm big on cost effectiveness. )
#16
I am honestly a bit surprised at your payload being that its a Limited. Thats a heavily optioned truck and I thought their GVWR was like 300 lbs lower than a normal ecoboost crew cab. Unfortunately Fords new website totally sucks and makes towing and payload look ups a giant PITA.
Either way, it seems you have a decent amount and can pull a good sized trailer without exceeding load, but I dont know if 8-9000 lbs is going to be a reality. You'll likely run out of tongue weight(which the WDH should be part of I believe) before payload. Check your hitch as someone else said and it will tell you the max tongue weight.
Either way, it seems you have a decent amount and can pull a good sized trailer without exceeding load, but I dont know if 8-9000 lbs is going to be a reality. You'll likely run out of tongue weight(which the WDH should be part of I believe) before payload. Check your hitch as someone else said and it will tell you the max tongue weight.
Last edited by mass-hole; 01-16-2017 at 07:47 PM.
#17
Yeah I know, and I have a great set of *real* camping gear too, all gathering dust... but add in a special needs toddler and there are a few things you just can't do without (like a refrigerator and microwave for medical foods). I'd rather glamp than not go out at all :P
#18
I am honestly a bit surprised at your payload being that its a Limited. Thats a heavily optioned truck and I thought their GVWR was like 300 lbs lower than a normal ecoboost crew cab. Unfortunately Fords new website totally sucks and makes towing and payload look ups a giant PITA.
Either way, it seems you have a decent amount and can pull a good sized trailer without exceeding load, but I dont know if 8-9000 lbs is going to be a reality. You'll likely run out of tongue weight(which the WDH should be part of I believe) before payload. Check your hitch as someone else said and it will tell you the max tongue weight.
Either way, it seems you have a decent amount and can pull a good sized trailer without exceeding load, but I dont know if 8-9000 lbs is going to be a reality. You'll likely run out of tongue weight(which the WDH should be part of I believe) before payload. Check your hitch as someone else said and it will tell you the max tongue weight.
Maybe I'll aim a little lower than my 8-9k OP, but it's good to know that I may be able to do 7000 lbs as opposed to the 5000 I was thinking. I just need to figure out how not to disintegrate/melt my transmission
Last edited by hhuberla; 01-16-2017 at 08:17 PM. Reason: added image
#19
Hmm, this is my payload sticker, I think I've read it right :
Maybe I'll aim a little lower than my 8-9k OP, but it's good to know that I may be able to do 7000 lbs as opposed to the 5000 I was thinking. I just need to figure out how not to disintegrate/melt my transmission
Maybe I'll aim a little lower than my 8-9k OP, but it's good to know that I may be able to do 7000 lbs as opposed to the 5000 I was thinking. I just need to figure out how not to disintegrate/melt my transmission
#20
Grumpy Old Man
That's easy if you pay attention to details when towing.
Your high-end trim pkg includes a digital tranny temp gauge in the display as well at the idiot gauge on the dash. The idiot gauge is nearly useless, but the digital tranny temp gauge is priceless. The red line is 225°. You should normally see less than 215° when towing, but steep grades at slower speeds can cause the tranny temp to soar. (If the torque converter is unlocked while the drivetrain is straining to tow the load, the ATF heat rises in a hurry.)
So when the truck is straining to tow the load up a grade, turn on that digital tranny temp gauge and watch it like a hawk. Maybe have Darling Wife watch it closely while you're busy driving. No problem as long as it shows less than about 220°. But over 220°, pay really close attention and don't allow it to go over 225°.
If it goes over 225°, then quickly find a place to pull over and stop, with the engine running and the tranny in neutral or park. Elevate the idle RPM to 1,200 or so and sit there twiddling your thumbs until the tranny temp falls below 220°.
And if that ever happens, then you should probably change the ATF soon. Use only the (expensive) ATF required by your Owner's Guide. Don't simply drain and refill the tranny pan, but flush the system with new ATF to get rid of all the old ATF.
If you have to flush the ATF because of heat more often than once in a blue moon, then you need more tranny cooling capacity. So replace the stock oil-to-air (OTA) heat exchanger with a much bigger one with more cooling capacity.
Happy camping!
Last edited by smokeywren; 01-17-2017 at 10:38 AM.