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Thanks very much for the information on the connectors and the tips for dealing with removing the hoses.
Shortly after I wrote the first post, I went and reviewed the set-up from UPR's new dual CC setup and saw they were only using one line for boost evac...Interesting. I must say they also have a nice looking set-up, and not drilling is definitely a plus. Nevertheless, now I'm wondering if they know something RX doesn't about the overall efficiiency with two lines verses one. Common sense would dictate two sources should be better than one? Some enginnering or other controlled studies from these suppliers could maybe answer that question.
I've read about every post I could find on this subject on this forum and others, and I do believe keeping this gunk out of the IM and off the valves can only be a positive. However, operationally, I also believe how much suction is required for the most efficient OCC operation is still more subjective than scientific at this point in time - just my 2c.
Oh by the way - I had a heck of a time getting the hoses over the OEM fittings as well, so I can understand your frustration. What I did to get them completely seated was to use a heat gun and heat them up to make them soft. If you don't have a heat gun, use a hair dryer.
Oh by the way - I had a heck of a time getting the hoses over the OEM fittings as well, so I can understand your frustration. What I did to get them completely seated was to use a heat gun and heat them up to make them soft. If you don't have a heat gun, use a hair dryer.
Funny, I tried the hair dryer thing for like 30 minutes, but it didn't really help much.
And, although their product quality is second to none, UPR is new to the Ecoboost CC game, so I'm not convinced they have it all figured out either. Their plug and play product is a great idea, I'm just not sure it's the most effective (at least yet). They certainly are trying to make a quality product though. I still think Tracy (Rx) has as good an understanding of the whole CC thing as anyone.
Funny, I tried the hair dryer thing for like 30 minutes, but it didn't really help much.
And, although their product quality is second to none, UPR is new to the Ecoboost CC game, so I'm not convinced they have it all figured out either. Their plug and play product is a great idea, I'm just not sure it's the most effective (at least yet). They certainly are trying to make a quality product though. I still think Tracy (Rx) has as good an understanding of the whole CC thing as anyone.
My heat gun worked good - more than likely the higher heat output.
I'm goin. continue to monitor these threads for more information and results.
I'll post my results after I get 400 to 500 miles on my system.
When U go to RevExtreme web site U quickly see the Monster can with instal instructions is the only one for 3.5L EB. A side note 1/2" hose over a5/8" nipple. For Shame !
Last edited by papa tiger; 08-30-2014 at 10:24 AM.
When U go to RevExtreme web site U quickly see the Monster can with instal instructions is the only one for 3.5L EB. A side note 1/2" hose over a5/8" nipple. For Shame !
That.would explain it. I didn't think to check all of that since this was a kit for the F-150 eco.
I plan to get the oem connectors and redo it over anyway. I plan to do this when Rx ships my cleanside separator. I ordered the entire system but when my package arrived the C.S. sep was missing.
I was not happy at all to say the least. I've sent an email asking about my missing component but have not yet recieved a response.
Tracy is there at Revextreme if you ask. Being the over worked and underpaid owner he wants to satisfy you, just ask an be patient. Lol. There hundreds wanting the monster system.
Last edited by papa tiger; 08-30-2014 at 06:30 PM.
Just emptied my new Rx catch can for the first time.
I put just over 300 miles since I install the system. I haven't received my clean side separator so the clean air supply from the CAI goes directly to the L.H. valve cover connector port. Also, as noted in my earlier post, I am only using the D.S. turbo port for evac during boost.
BTW Phantom- I check my air box for any oil blow back and it was clean and dry.
Results: Ave. Temps around 90 degrees with >70% humidity
I drained about one ounce of fluid that was light brown in color and had the consistency of light wt oil - like 3 in 1 oil. It has a pungent smell. Appears to be mainly a gas oil mixture. Does not appear to have any water mixed in.
I'm not sure if my current setup (using only one port for Boost evac) is very effective as I thought I would have seen more fluid?
My next drain interval will be in 500 miles at 2000 miles on the odo. I will continue to monitor over the coming months as the temps will begin to drop.
I spoke with Rx Extreme today and was told the C.S. Sep. will be shipping by end of the week. So i'll wait to receive this before deciding on whether or not to drill
Next 500 miles produced quite a bit more, right at about 4 ounces. Temps have been a little cooler, but still in the 70's and 80's for the most part. This time it was a much more milky color, as Voz mentioned, like a heavily creamered cup of coffee. It still had an odor of gas, but only stronger. I have noticed the oil on the dipstick doesn't smell like gas as it had pre install of the catch can, pretty much just a regular oil smell now. Only other difference was that I'm running the clean side separator now instead of the breather filter. I still haven't drilled the passenger side turbo inlet just using vacuum from the driver side barb only. Truck has been running great, and this last tank mpg's were up about 0.3 mpg over the previous tank. My truck has 5,500 miles now, so it could just be improving as it gets a little more broke in. But, my 2012's mpg's stayed pretty much the same until around the 10K mark when I saw about a 1 mpg increase. That truck was completely stock though.
I have been working with multiple Tuners and Ford mechanics and our findings have been very consistent with the no drilling solution to WOT evacuation. The system works like it should and the biggest difference we are seeing is that when you drill the passenger side is that you scavenge a bit more vapor mist.
The intake tract and system remains clean running the UPR no drill solution on the driver side and the trucks runs smooth and improves gas mileage. The is the main reason UPR chose to run the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can with the no drill solution is because of warranty and no headaches. Dealers are now looking for clean and fresh installed air intake components such as the passenger side intake pipe or air box lid being swapped out.
You will see the same or better overall MPG increases and the vacuum and additional ring seal from the increased evacuation vacuum will only promote a much better break in. Please keep sharing Phantom. Nice work.
Some of the stuff my large can collected in the last rain storm which lasted several days looked like water floating on an oily mixture but it didn't evaporate away even after over a week sitting on the shelf it still remained the same glop in a glass, a oily base with bubbles of a watery mix floating on top in a ratio of about 4 to 1 but remained the same as when I drained it. The water floating like globules appeared to be like a liquid paraffin mix. Total of 4 tablespoons of the glop over 2 days and 540 miles of driving thru the rain. This is the stuff that builds up in the CAC. The bubbles won't burn, it won't evaporate it just congeals into what you see. While the hose from the Valve cover is hot near it the rest and the can remain cold to the touch. Attached Images
I popped off the tube and put 5/8" hoses on and connected the 3" diameter can to them by the horns.
Last edited by papa tiger; 09-10-2014 at 11:19 PM.
08-29-2014, 02:04 PM
Factory connectors
