Good old Bill

Certain things I remember about the hook up, I'm sure Sean will be along to help. You have to use an analogue voltmeter not a digital. Positive lead to batt pos. negative lead to the second from left with the four pin row at bottom. Jumper the little dangling connector to the top right pin. Turn key to on and count the needle sweeps just as Sean explained.

iRmARK88

roughly how long would it take a comp to "relearn" my driving style??

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-- Flowmaster -- Roush grill -- Keg handle on the shifter -- kicker 750.1 on sub -- infinity perfect 12" sub -- alpine pdx 4.100 on highs -- infinity perfect component speakers -- python 990 alarm -- Goodyear Wrangler 285/70/17 for the shoes -- Hella headlights

Just call me Sean

If your truck has a check engine light then you don't need to hook up the voltmeter, you just count the flashes. If the bulb is burned out and you don't feel like changing it, then you can use the voltmeter to read the codes. Turn on the ignition key and make sure the check engine light comes on. If you're sure you have the hookups right and they are making good contact and the computer still won't go into diagnostic mode then that usually means the computer is fried.

My truck usually relearns my driving style after about 50 miles of driving.

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"Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated."
Early Cuyler

BlondieGirl

I have a code reader for this truck that i can plug in as you shown. Can i just use it. This truck is a 1992.

Jamesb53191

My check engine light doesn't work

What else should I do?

Just call me Sean

If your check engine light doesn't work you can still get the codes by using a voltmeter as shown in the diagram. You should change the bulb so it does work. If you recently got this truck then I have seen people remove the bulb because the light was on.

__________________
"Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated."
Early Cuyler

Kattumaram

I use an Actron CP-9015 (OBD-I) on my 94 Lincoln. The unit is cheap, about 30 bucks, and very comprehensive.....saved me a lot of grief and bucks.

czw1

Sean - I've got an '89 F-150, 4WD, straight 6, 300. The picture above is clear enough, and I found the STO and STI . . . but the port on the STO that you show jumping to the STI is like a dry well. Any reason why Ford would leave that port un-wired? Any work around possible?

Thanks -
cz

Just call me Sean

I've never seen one that didn't have the wire. Maybe it came out or broke off. Check the harness to see if there's a loose wire. Make sure you have the correct spot in the plug because some others aren't used.

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"Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated."
Early Cuyler

proudfordowner

us guys with digital mileage can do this to scan for trouble codes as of a few other things...

http://http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/

The above site lists Ford trouble codes. You might find it useful if you use the following diagnostic trick:

With the key OFF, push (and hold down) the SELECT/RESET button on your odometer.

Start the vehicle while still holding the button. Continue to hold it down, until all of your gauges jump up to their maximum, and then return to normal.

When you see "bulb" in the digital odometer readout, let off the button. This is the gauge test mode.

Some of the things you can view on your odometer screen are:

Digital speedometer (mph)
Digital tachometer (RPM)
Digital speedometer (kph)
Battery Voltage
Engine Temperature
Plus, you can also view any TCs stored in the computer!

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