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Ordered bilstein 5100s and rear blocks, any advice on install?

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Old 10-23-2017, 11:13 AM
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Strongly suggest a large pry bar and at a bare minimum a 12 pack
Old 10-24-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith460
Not necessarily.
If only popping ball joints out of their prospective mounts and NOT disturbing threaded joints or lifting the vehicle to raise its height, than an alignment is not necessary. Don't be fooled by someone telling you that because you are changing shocks, sway bar ends or upper and lower ball joints that an alignment will be needed.

Steering ball joint replacement: alignment is needed
LCA removal: alignment is needed
Raising vehicle changes front geometry: alignment is needed
I will need an alignment then, I plan on setting the bilstiens at max height which will change my geometry.
Old 10-24-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith460
Not necessarily.
If only popping ball joints out of their prospective mounts and NOT disturbing threaded joints or lifting the vehicle to raise its height, than an alignment is not necessary. Don't be fooled by someone telling you that because you are changing shocks, sway bar ends or upper and lower ball joints that an alignment will be needed.

Steering ball joint replacement: alignment is needed
LCA removal: alignment is needed
Raising vehicle changes front geometry: alignment is needed
I personally believe you will need an alignment after most front end touching. Springs get slightly weaker, tie rods are a b*** to get back to exact spec, shocks may be slightly longer or shorter.

For the price of an alignment ~$60, it is definitely cheaper than risking my tires or other suspension parts.

Also, always ask for the sheet with the specs.
Old 10-24-2017, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith460
I've done it both ways and is much easier pulling the IWE's. As soon as you drop the LCA, you need to have a front end alignment and the bolts are damn tight to begin with.
They may be tight, but by me I have a solid amount of tools and air tools.
Only truck that I have ran into that truly is tight was my dad's Ram 2500.

Still though; there is nothing a 24" pry bar has failed me on yet. *Knock on wood* Also, have never had to use heat.
Old 10-28-2017, 04:11 PM
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Anybody know the torque number for the little front axek nut behind the little dust cover? I'm putting this back together right now and need the spec quick
Old 10-28-2017, 04:25 PM
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The Ford manual indicates 30 ft lbs for the axle nut.

If you removed the axle from the IWE, upon reassembly make certain the depth of length of the stud protruding from the hub is 15.5mm. Anything less typically indicates the teeth of the axle and IWE are not in sync. To clear any binding rotate the axle, the teeth should properly engage the IWE.
Old 10-28-2017, 06:43 PM
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Thanks, I just seen your post but I did torque to 30. I didn't measure the depth if the stud but they did appear to be the same length afterwords by my eye.
Old 10-28-2017, 08:24 PM
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Thanks again for all the help guys I appreciate it! The install went pretty smooth and so far I'm happy with it. The ride is nice and the stance looks good, now I just need some tires!!! I'll get some pictures up here once I take some, hopefully tomorrow.
Old 10-29-2017, 11:07 AM
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Here she is after the 5100s and blocks, needs tires asap!










Old 10-29-2017, 11:15 AM
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Before shot...






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