New to the forum {obviously}. Done some searching and I'll never double post... And I'll try not to create any threads on topics that have been beaten like my first exwife

Here's the low down, 94 4x4 300, reg cab, LB, w/115k. I was told her name is Ruth.

Got a shot bearing on one of the pulleys (i think) and from what I searched on here, that's likely the P/S.

Notice a hesitation off the line, more noticable after I'm holding the break, let off, then if i feather it... not as noticable. From searching (notice how i continue to point this trend out) I'm under the impression I'll need to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump assembly. That can wait, I haven't noticed the tank sending everything to the front or back.

Front rotor is warped. Any suggestion on what is economical, reliable, and durable for this model would be appreciated.

 

Here's Ruth. Once She's had her insides properly serviced, I would like to pull and paint the bumpers black, tint the trick's windows a little, then slap a vinyl skirt on her trunk. Then, i'll watch the rust eat her.

 

Good looking truck! 115k isn't bad either - you've good a good truck to work with.

The bearing could be any of the accessories with a pulley on them - a/c, power steering, idler pulley, smog pump, etc. You might try pulling the serpentine belt and turning each pulley by hand - you may be able to feel or hear the bad one and decide how to correct from there.

The hesitation could be lots of things... First thing I'd do is a tune up - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter change. If that doesn't cure it, check for codes - this link will show you how:

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/

 

Hah! Yeah, rust sucks and replacement body panels cost more than replacement trucks.

 

I literally spent 7 hrs removing the old plugs. I swear the guy before me must have used an impact wrench. Luckily, the threads were sparred. New plugs, wires, cap, and button. Truck runs like a champ. Literally, engine through transmission is smooth. Only problem, got the engine light on... but i broke part of the Vacuum line fitting either when plug 1's casing flaked off, or while working on #6... had to break 6 off from the nut to get a good socket on the plug, add a box wrench for leverage, and a collosal friend, an act of Congress, peace talks between Irsreal & Iran, a look at Gazelle's tiies and we finally got the plugs out.

I'm down to the belt squeek, a bad inner bearing, shocks, steering column free-play, wiper short, front/rear main seals (which i'll just add oil), an exhaust rattle, and then, It's time to wear Ruth out.

 

I as well broke the vacuum lines, and i haven't fixed them, i think its more trouble than its worth. IF im wrong what would be the advantage of fixing them?

 

Whatever those vac lines control won't be able to work right without them. That is probably also the cause of your high idle.

 

My guess/assumption/understanding is this; the vac line just feeds the excess air from the block back to the air box to recycle the air and keep it flowing (and aid in idling like alien said). What i broke was the fitting ontop of the return, so my line is still in place, just not the little rubber insert fitting.

 

I had a similar experience changing my plugs. Because of the proximity of the systems, I'm taking a wild guess that you knocked off your EGR vacuum line when you were between the middle east and the business end of a gazelle on #6. Different vacuum lines do different things. Some vacuum operated systems are critical, others aren't but can cause things like a high end miss or crappy mileage. One leak can effect the whole system. Pictures of the stuff in question would help.

Do like aliens said and pull your engine codes. It's usually worth it to have your vac operated sytems running.

 

finally got in there to have a look-see. i'd broken 2 small plastic vac lines (one pink, one green). I picked up a rubber hose, and reconnected them. engine light is off now.