Helping a friend try and get his truck running. 300 inline and i think its called tfi ignition? I dont know ford, im a chevy guy but am just trying to help. Been doing alot of reading to figure this out and im at my wits end on what to test and. He first got ahold of me saying he was replacing the module and bought a new harness for the coil. I showed up and made sure the module was installed fully, and ohmed the new coil to be sure and it checked fine. He said the truck started running rough one day and then just quick running. I also believe the owner before had done some janky wiring to the ignition wires round the module and such so its a mess. Ive seperated all the wires, and tried my best to find wiring diagrams to connect things right. This is whats been done so far. And he said his inline spark tester worked on his bike so i guess its good. New coil, new module, new distributor, new harness for coil. I have verified tec cyl 1 and redone plug wires as they were very wrong when i took them off. Not even lying, it was 1 2 3 in that order clockwise on the cap and i
​cant figure out how the truck ran. Anywho, im not 100 percent sure if the tec was compression or exhaust because i cannot get a finger over the hole to feel compression. But that shouldnt cause no spark so ill deal with that later if i stabbed the dizzy 180 off. Set order for 153624. Connected one green from the coil neg to a wire that has a resistor block in it and recieves power when key is on, and then connected the other green from coil neg to the tach and module wire. Connected the red from coil positive to the white that gets power from the eec relay and shares that same power with a wire from the module plug. Crank and no spark. Removed spout, no spark. Tried to check the brown relay which i think is the eec relay, and i think that was good but no identifiers for which wire is which so couldnt test well. I do not have a dwell meter or tool to read a hall effect so i cannot test the pip but its a new dizzy so should be good. Im lost. If ive connected the wires wrong, please help me know the right connections. If there is a test ive missed, help. Ive exhausted my experience and the kid needs a vehicle to get to work so i wanna help. Pics for reference.

Green circle is tach. Red goes to module. White is from the eec relay. Purple receives power when key is turned on.

I think the brown relay is the eec but when i unplugged and tested eec wire at module, i still received power so idk

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Check the ground side of the coil plug, it should interrupt quickly while cranking the engine, Have you checked to see if the injectors are firing? The injectors are timed based off of PIP signal from the distributor. And don't assume that new=good, especially with TFI modules, and even more so with aftermarket distributors.

 

Thank you for responding. I did more testing and this is what ive come up with. Good power to positive of coil. Power at negative and when cranking it would drop to somewhere round 10ish, maybe more idk. Im using a basic multimeter so idk how accurate those are for fast switching voltages. Tested wire from start solenoid to eec relay and it ohmed at less than 1 so that wire is solid no breaks or corrosion. And when cranking, it drops to loke 9.6 which is normal for volts during cranking so that wires good. Jumped the eec relay to see if relay was possibly limiting voltage, still no change so i dont spect the relay is bad. Even though i couldnt get an ohm reading through 86 and 85 on it, but plug it in with the relay and fuel kicks on so i know its working. Verified and check tdc cyl 1 and found i was 180 out so got that corrected. Back probed and check the pip signal and got alternating between 10v and 0v so pip is good, brand new dizzy but checked anyways. Coil also ohms less than 1k which was within the spec so coils good, also a new part but checked anyways. Not really sure what to check to check module but that came with the new dizzy so it should be good. Also got the wiring sorted out. One green from coil goes to tach, one to module, and the hot is from eec relay. The other wire infound out goes to some single wire thing on the block near the coil but i do not belive it affects ignition because i have not found it on any wiring diagram. So im confident now that my coil wiring is correct. Tries with spout in, no spark. Spout out, no spark. Spark tester in, no spark. Spark tester out, no spark. I have done every test ive seen or read about and still no spark so im very lost.

 

From the pics you added, it looks like the truck is either an '87 or '88, here are some pics from a '91 diag manual, which should be about the same.

 

Hey man, my truck that I just bought, a 1996 f150 with the inline 6 and a 5 speed manual, would start half the time and sometimes would crank without spark. Turns out the ground cable straight to the terminal was loose in the cable end, not to the point where it was falling out but to the point that it could be moved around slightly. I took it out, cleaned it up and resurfaced the wire, tightened the crap out of it and now I have spark and it starts up every time without fail. I doubt that's what your problem is but, I similarly had no spark without an explanation and was about to dive in when I realized that that cable end was just a little loose.