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This is going to be a challenge....

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Old 01-08-2016, 12:36 AM
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Hi all, I'm a new member, Tom, from Oklahoma. I bought a 1989 F150 XLT Lariat with the 5.0 EFI engine, automatic tranny. The truck has set for over three years. The PO said it has a hole in the cylinder although he has never had the truck looked at by a mechanic. He said it just lost power and he can hear a "poofing" noise from the exhaust pipe. The truck is in fantastic condition to restore...one owner with only 94k miles, no dents and perfect interior. This truck deserves to be back on the road. My first problem is when I turn the key switch to the run position, I get no power, no gauges cycle, no check engine, no sound from fuel pump and wipers won't even come on. It has a new battery. When I continue turning key to start, it will crank, I get spark to the coil and spark to #5 cylinder...only cylinder I have checked so far. I know it is not getting fuel, so I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body and it still wont fire. I'll figure this out later but right now I need to get power. I replaced ignition key switch but didn't help. I removed column cover by the dash and i can watch the actuator rod move up and down. I checked fuses under dash...all good. I haven't checked the ignition switch down lower on the column yet. I read a post earlier where someone had an 89 bronco and it did the same...his problem he thought was the ecm. He said if the ecm is bad, you won't get power in the "run" position of the key switch. Why does mine still crank when in the start position? I know this post is long, but I tried to give as much info as i could. Please, if you have any suggestions, I would sincerely appreciate them....thank you.
Old 01-11-2016, 04:02 PM
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Is the fuel pump whining when you turn the key? If not I would check your relays. Mine were by air filter on right side of my 5.8. I cleaned mine with a wire brush and electrical parts contact cleaner
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:25 PM
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Fuel pump does not come on, when I turn key to run position, the only thing that works is blower fan...my gauges do not cycle, no dash lights, no radio...nothing. But if I continue to start position, it will crank but of course wont start because not getting fuel I don't know if a relay would cause this or if the ignition switch down lower on the column might be the problem...thanks for your reply...
Old 01-11-2016, 07:37 PM
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Was it sitting where critters could get in there? I'm wondering if they maybe chewed up a wire that would affect your gauge cluster. Best thing to do is get a multimeter out and start chasing shorts.......after you check all of the fuses. Some of the relays are interchangeable if I remember correctly. Might swap them back and forth one at a time. Mark the back of them with a silver sharpie so you make sure to put them back where they are supposed to be.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:53 AM
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Yes absolutely could be the problem. Exactly the case with my truck. Cut out on me, it restarted, drove 100 feet same thing. Had to get it towed. Replaced a whole bunch of crap just for it to be an oxidized and dirty relay. Costed me $0.00
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:58 PM
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Found the problem...the plug to the ignition starter switch was not seated all the way down and not making proper contact when the key switch was in the "run" position but would make contact when trying to crank. This was also another members problem and he posted pics but I could not find the post again to give him thanks...but if your reading this.....thank you for the tip. So, problem one solved, now move on to why it is not getting fuel...I suspect the high pressure pump could have gone bad after sitting over 3 years. Anyway, thanks for all your replies....sincerely appreciated!
Old 01-18-2016, 11:24 AM
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Carb cleaner in the throttle body wouldn't be the way to go, normally.
Starting fluid, a 3 second burst directly into the throttle body then turn the key - it should fire for a second if you have spark.
As manuellabor mentioned, check all the fuses and relays for the fuel system, also check that the inertia switch hasn.t been popped.
And you should be able to force the pumps from the self test plug if the pumps are working. Bottom right plug to ground, I believe.



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