Hello

After much research and a consult from a trusty professional, I believe I have a blown PCM in my 1992 F150 5.0, which I will need to repair or replace. I am being led to believe I can identify a replacement using the calibration code on my door, which is

2-54P-R00.

I have Googled and researched but not sure this is accurate. This weekend, I will remove PCM for part number, but wondering if someone could assist me beforehand based on this information? If not, what is the calibration code used for?

Two related questions:

• To remove the PCM, I know I need to unbolt it on the engine compartment side, but it looks to me like I need to actually remove the unit from under the dash on the driver's side. I think it comes out that way. Am I correct?
• Does anyone know if it is possible to see/access the PCM identification sticker WITHOUT removing the whole unit? I will answer this question myself this weekend, but thought I would ask.

Thanks!

 

The calibration code identifies how the ECU is programmed, or "calibrated" from the factory.
In my experiences, removing the ECU is easier by dropping the wheel well liner, and pulling it out through there, although there is still a clamp holding it in behind the driver side kick panel. Once the ECU is out, you can open it up and look at the three or four capacitors that are prone to leaking.
And what exact issue are you having that made you determine that the ECU is bad?

 

Exactly what symptoms & diagnosis led to that belief?That's the EMISSIONS calibration code.

(click this text)
There are several distinct calibration codes on each vehicle - each one has its own use.No. It only comes out forward through the firewall toward the front tire. Back out the connector using the 10mm bolt in the center, then move the connector to the side and remove the 2 11mm(7/16") nuts above & below and slide the EEC with the seal forward. The wheelwell must be loose along its rear lip; its screws have 5.5mm(7/32") heads.Yes, but it's irrelevant. You need to look inside the EEC. Read this page & the NEXT 4:

(click this text)

 

This is incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!

 

[QUOTE=Steve83;7353904]Exactly what symptoms & diagnosis led to that belief?

That's a bit of a story. Bought the truck over Labor Day weekend, knowing it would have issues. It's a hobby truck, not a daily driver. A couple of days after buying it, the truck started dumping transmission fluid on the front side of the transmission after warming up and putting it under a load.

We pulled the transmission, replaced torque converter, installed a Shift Technology Superior KE4OD kit, seals, and front pump bushing. I also installed an aftermarket trans temp gauge. This addressed the trans fluid leak, but the truck would still intermittently send codes 62, 63, 53, 36 and 75 and would intermittently approach trans temp of 240 degrees. When I say intermittently, I mean really randomly, sometimes it would go for days without misbehaving.

I was stumped and took it to a trusted transmission mechanic--Shout out to Jim at Leon's Transmission in La Mirada, California, he's a good, honest mechanic--Jim drove it around for five days before it misbehaved and he told me that he was 99.9% sure that all my troubles stemmed from the PCM being fried. He suggested that I pull it out and repair or replace it.

Steve83, I want to thank you for all the detailed input you give on this board. Previous posts of yours have taught me a lot about my new to me Ford. It's appreciated.

 

So his only diagnosis was sitting behind the steering wheel?That's a euphemism for "NOT sure", which is the same as a GUESS. It might be an educated or experienced guess, but it's still just a guess.Did he actually say "fried"? If so, I'd never go back to him.

These EECs don't simply burn out - it takes a LOT to damage them, and they're almost always repairable.I suggest you LOOK inside it, which costs nothing but a few minutes. Steer hard to the Left, remove the rear/bottom 3~4 wheelwell lip screws (and maybe the 1 rear inboard 8mm bolt), pull the wheelwell forward on top of the tire, and slide the EEC out.

 

"Fried" was my word. My next step is to pull it and check it out. I will report back.

 

Remember, 1992 Ford F150 5.0 302.

I had the time to remove the PCM today, but got hung up. I started by removing the 10mm retaining bolt on the wiring harness on the engine side. I then removed the two 11mm retaining clips. The bottom one was problematic, but I got it. Next came the rectangular plastic retaining clip



After this, I loosened the fender wall on the left side. Unfortunately, I couldn't see a way to get at the PCM from the wheel well. I could see the connector on the firewall side of the engine bay, but did not see a way to get to PCM.

I watched a couple of videos for this. Unfortunately, none of them were specific to my 92. One was a 93, and another was a 4.9 six. In one of the videos, they say that you could remove the kick plate on the left side under the dash, and the PCM is right there, to be easily wiggled out after removing a retaining bracket. So, I did that.

Removed kick plate under left side of dash between wall and emergency brake assembly


Unfortunately, the PCM wasn't right there. There is this large metal plate, which is part of the emergency brake assembly.

Large metal plate


The PCM is just underneath this plate. I can see it there, and can wiggle it

PCM is up underneath that metal plate


The question is, how to get it out? It wont come out from the engine side, obviously. Can I get at it from UNDER the truck on the right side under the wheel well? I certainly couldn't get there from the left side under the wheel well. Do I remove the emergency brake assembly, or will the PCM slip down and out over by the hood latch?

Anyone have a 1992 and can advise?

 

Removing the ECU on a '93 would be the exact same process, same for a '94 and '95, almost the same for an '87-'91 I would expect a '96 to be the same, too, but I don't have experience with that one. The engine also has no effect on the process of removing the ECU, for the most part, as long as it is an f-series or bronco with an EEC-iv. If the retainer behind the kick panel has been taken off, then it should slide out through the fire wall on the engine bay side.

 

That's what your signature is for.As I said above: fold the plastic wheelwell forward on top of the tire, and slide the EEC straight forward out of the firewall. That's the ONLY way to remove it. Period.All '92-96 Broncos/F-series (& '97 >8500GVWR) are the same.Obviously, it will. That's how it was installed at the factory. They just did it before the wheelwell or engine-bay wiring were installed. NOTHING needs to be removed or touched inside the cab.