1989 f150 with No EEC STI wire for pulling codes
03-07-2017, 10:06 AM
#21
I have seen them be the cause of a no start or poor running so a good possibility. Stay with the stock one - that system is pretty dependable but mixing and matching components can put a strain on the other components. They're only about 45 - 50 $$ and it's not a waste to have a fresh one on there either way.
Usually on a no start, I will shoot a 3 sec burst of starting fluid directly into the throttle body - won't hurt it - then turn the key.
If it fires, it's a fuel problem; if it doesn't it's spark or timing.
You can get an idea if the timing is close - turn it to 10 deg btdc on the compession stroke; then pull the dist cap. The rotor should be at #1 wire and one of the little **** (8 of them) on the shaft should be pretty much right at the sensing hole in the pickup.
It's got to be one of the big three - fuel mixture, spark or timing.
Although I have seen them refuse to fire when there isn't enough compression because the rings are dry - from cleaning during a head gasket change or sitting for a very long time. Pulling the plugs and putting one or 2 drops of oil in each cylinder will usually get past that and once it fires up it's fine.
Hopefully there's something in all that to get you rolling.
Usually on a no start, I will shoot a 3 sec burst of starting fluid directly into the throttle body - won't hurt it - then turn the key.
If it fires, it's a fuel problem; if it doesn't it's spark or timing.
You can get an idea if the timing is close - turn it to 10 deg btdc on the compession stroke; then pull the dist cap. The rotor should be at #1 wire and one of the little **** (8 of them) on the shaft should be pretty much right at the sensing hole in the pickup.
It's got to be one of the big three - fuel mixture, spark or timing.
Although I have seen them refuse to fire when there isn't enough compression because the rings are dry - from cleaning during a head gasket change or sitting for a very long time. Pulling the plugs and putting one or 2 drops of oil in each cylinder will usually get past that and once it fires up it's fine.
Hopefully there's something in all that to get you rolling.
03-22-2017, 09:56 PM
#23
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The famous fast idle
Hi everyone,
the truck is running, however it has a fast idle, it's about 1100 - 1400 and if you snap the Excelerator pedal it sometimes will idle at 1100. It has a 5.8L, auto. I set the timing at 10* before tdc, it has a new tps set at .900 v, if I unplug the air speed control solenoid it runs around 650 rpms, I checked to see if the throttle body was getting hung up but it is free. I would like it to idle around 700 - 800 rpms I even tested by changing tps voltage at different intervals came up with the same idle. I have checked for a vacuum leak everything looks good there. I check run out in the timing chain and it looks good. but then again I'm not a fan of these years ignition systems. My other truck same motor and trans idled at 750 Rpms I have read a ton of fix all post but most of them talk about a very high idle. Any ideas ?
the truck is running, however it has a fast idle, it's about 1100 - 1400 and if you snap the Excelerator pedal it sometimes will idle at 1100. It has a 5.8L, auto. I set the timing at 10* before tdc, it has a new tps set at .900 v, if I unplug the air speed control solenoid it runs around 650 rpms, I checked to see if the throttle body was getting hung up but it is free. I would like it to idle around 700 - 800 rpms I even tested by changing tps voltage at different intervals came up with the same idle. I have checked for a vacuum leak everything looks good there. I check run out in the timing chain and it looks good. but then again I'm not a fan of these years ignition systems. My other truck same motor and trans idled at 750 Rpms I have read a ton of fix all post but most of them talk about a very high idle. Any ideas ?
03-29-2017, 08:28 AM
#24
I'd suspect the IAC, throttle plates not closing tight, or maybe someone messed with that screw that looks like an idle adjustment screw on a carburetor but isn't. That screw is not supposed to be played with - it was just there for initial factory setup; the IAC controls idle.
The IAC is controlled by the computer.
The IAC is controlled by the computer.
03-29-2017, 09:40 PM
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Up
Yes, I thought that also. Ok I have some more questions
the truck is a 1989 f150, 351W, C-6, 4X4.
I want to upgrade the truck with a better ignition and computer ( maybe newer factory maybe aftermarket maybe build my own ) I can put a cam, timing chain and cover off of a newer 5.8 to obtain a crank and cam sensors and a overdrive transmission. I like the E4OD in my opinion it's better than the aod and I was thinking about finding a rolled 1997 f150 5.8L auto and use everything from it if I make sure everything I want is on it. I just think the ignition system and computer are so out dated plus I was never a fan of fords ignition in these years. Let's face it the engine could run so much better. I think the 97 f150 still had the 351w with E4OD if I remember correctly.
the truck is a 1989 f150, 351W, C-6, 4X4.
I want to upgrade the truck with a better ignition and computer ( maybe newer factory maybe aftermarket maybe build my own ) I can put a cam, timing chain and cover off of a newer 5.8 to obtain a crank and cam sensors and a overdrive transmission. I like the E4OD in my opinion it's better than the aod and I was thinking about finding a rolled 1997 f150 5.8L auto and use everything from it if I make sure everything I want is on it. I just think the ignition system and computer are so out dated plus I was never a fan of fords ignition in these years. Let's face it the engine could run so much better. I think the 97 f150 still had the 351w with E4OD if I remember correctly.
Last edited by CCTV shop; 03-29-2017 at 09:54 PM.
04-01-2017, 11:04 PM
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Won't start
i still have a starting issue, the truck runs great and every now and then it won't start, it has a strong snap spark about 3/4" at the coil wire and at the spark plugs , it has fuel pressure and the pump is cycling, it only way that I get it to start is to disconnect the - battery cable for 5 minutes and reconnect it and it will start and run.
If there was something wrong in the tfi or dist disconnecting the battery would not affect it,
any ideas ?
If there was something wrong in the tfi or dist disconnecting the battery would not affect it,
any ideas ?
06-11-2017, 01:05 AM
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Possible bad ecm
ok the truck was running good and now has the red engine light on and the yellow check engine light flashing, it also acts like it will die to the point where you can't drive it and there is no codes ? Possible computer problem ?