Part numbers
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 32
Likes: 9
From: Kilwinning, Scotland
Part numbers
Hi folks,
First time American car owner here in Scotland so please bear with me. My 1987 F150 has only one key, which is snapped in the ignition. Now, I’ve been directed to Rockauto for spares but I am open to other suggestions. The problem arises when I put in the details of my truck and I get 6 options with various alternative part numbers. Do I need to find the same part number or will all of these options fit my truck?
Thanks in advance , Geordie 🏴🇺🇸
First time American car owner here in Scotland so please bear with me. My 1987 F150 has only one key, which is snapped in the ignition. Now, I’ve been directed to Rockauto for spares but I am open to other suggestions. The problem arises when I put in the details of my truck and I get 6 options with various alternative part numbers. Do I need to find the same part number or will all of these options fit my truck?
Thanks in advance , Geordie 🏴🇺🇸
Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,770
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Virtually all column-mounted Ford ignition lock cylinders up to ~2004 will fit & work in your '80-91 column. The only real differences in them are 1) the number of wafers inside (cuts in the key) and 2) durability. The '92-95 version is the worst. The '96-04 version is best. Read this page:
(click this text)
Since your key is in the lock cylinder, you should be able to simply turn it to RUN (don't start), press the release pin (for non-tilt column, remove the steering wheel), and pull the cylinder assembly out. Insert the replacement, turn it to LOCK, and remove its (good) key. Done (sort of).
So you need to find out if it's a tilt column or not - look at the hole where the blinker stalk goes into the column; is it a rounded slot (non-tilt), or oddly-shaped with a bar in front of the stalk (tilt)? If you can't tell, post pics. As you learn things about the truck, add them to your signature so we all know what you're working with, as this page explains:
You can buy a cheap aftermarket lock cylinder (in the US) for ~$12 and it'll work fine. But its key won't match or work with your door keys. You can pay a locksmith to match them, but he might have to supply the cylinder, and it could cost a lot. You can't buy a new Ford/StratTech(OEM) 10-cut lock cylinder, but you can buy an 8-cut for ~US$60 which seems more expensive, but you build it yourself which is free (if you have the patience & dexterity to assemble the tiny parts). And you can buy decent aftermarket 8-cut door lock cylinders which will fit & work & look right for ~US$50/pr with a precut key. So if you buy that, and build the Ford ignition cylinder to match that (new) door key, you'll have a matched set for ~US$110. That's what I did for my '93 F250. The other advantage to swapping to the 8-cut key is that you can buy aftermarket accessories that work with it, like Bolt brand (made by StratTech) locks.
(click this text)
Since your key is in the lock cylinder, you should be able to simply turn it to RUN (don't start), press the release pin (for non-tilt column, remove the steering wheel), and pull the cylinder assembly out. Insert the replacement, turn it to LOCK, and remove its (good) key. Done (sort of).
So you need to find out if it's a tilt column or not - look at the hole where the blinker stalk goes into the column; is it a rounded slot (non-tilt), or oddly-shaped with a bar in front of the stalk (tilt)? If you can't tell, post pics. As you learn things about the truck, add them to your signature so we all know what you're working with, as this page explains:
You can buy a cheap aftermarket lock cylinder (in the US) for ~$12 and it'll work fine. But its key won't match or work with your door keys. You can pay a locksmith to match them, but he might have to supply the cylinder, and it could cost a lot. You can't buy a new Ford/StratTech(OEM) 10-cut lock cylinder, but you can buy an 8-cut for ~US$60 which seems more expensive, but you build it yourself which is free (if you have the patience & dexterity to assemble the tiny parts). And you can buy decent aftermarket 8-cut door lock cylinders which will fit & work & look right for ~US$50/pr with a precut key. So if you buy that, and build the Ford ignition cylinder to match that (new) door key, you'll have a matched set for ~US$110. That's what I did for my '93 F250. The other advantage to swapping to the 8-cut key is that you can buy aftermarket accessories that work with it, like Bolt brand (made by StratTech) locks.
Last edited by Steve83; Sep 10, 2021 at 12:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 32
Likes: 9
From: Kilwinning, Scotland
Hi Steve83,
Now that is what’s called a comprehensive answer 😊 Thanks very much for that indeed. I’ve gone ahead and ordered the parts and once they make their way across the Atlantic I’ll let you know how I get on. I’ll follow your guide on adding the info to my signature and hopefully make things a bit easier when members are dealing with a complete novice. Thanks again and all the best.
Cheers
Geordie
Now that is what’s called a comprehensive answer 😊 Thanks very much for that indeed. I’ve gone ahead and ordered the parts and once they make their way across the Atlantic I’ll let you know how I get on. I’ll follow your guide on adding the info to my signature and hopefully make things a bit easier when members are dealing with a complete novice. Thanks again and all the best.
Cheers
Geordie
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Annapolis, MD
I think that I am going to go this route for my 1995 F150.
I took a look at the Strattec web page and they also have a coded lock set which includes the ignition cylinder, door cylinders, and one? key. When you buy this package, I don't know if you get the key code / wafer sizes used in the cylinders.
Is the advantage to buying the coded door lock and the ignition lock kit that you can "learn" the correct wafers for the keys that they provide when you build the ignition cylinder? Right now I have a single mystery key that does not work very well, and I can't seem to get a new key cut from it that is good. I want to get in a spot where I know the key "code" so that I can have a good key made in the event that I lose one of the keys.
Thanks,
Andy
I took a look at the Strattec web page and they also have a coded lock set which includes the ignition cylinder, door cylinders, and one? key. When you buy this package, I don't know if you get the key code / wafer sizes used in the cylinders.
Is the advantage to buying the coded door lock and the ignition lock kit that you can "learn" the correct wafers for the keys that they provide when you build the ignition cylinder? Right now I have a single mystery key that does not work very well, and I can't seem to get a new key cut from it that is good. I want to get in a spot where I know the key "code" so that I can have a good key made in the event that I lose one of the keys.
Thanks,
Andy