mcurrier79

My starter was starting to go out. When it got cold out, it stopped giving me problems. Now that it is warming back up (live in Tennessee where we can get all 4 seasons in a single day) it is acting up again. I need a new starter (yes it is the starter, when I go all Gallagher on it, it will start).

Since I will be rebuilding a 351w soon I want to be able to transfer the new starter to it when I get it done and since I want to make sure that when the zombies come I won't have to fend them off while beating my starter to get it away from the horde, I want a performance starter.

Below are links to the starters I found. My question is, what is the real difference? The only thing I can see is that one of them says 3/8" Depth. What does that mean?

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...rs/parts/50903

https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...s/parts/509013

They both say they are "compact design" so that it wont get in the way of the headers or the extra capacity oil pan.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

There is a difference between manual and automatic starters.
If you just buy a new OEM starter you're likely to get years and years out of it.
Rebuilt ones are a crapshoot; some are real good and others - not so much. I've had good luck but I've seen others get a bad rebuilt right out of the box.
That Motorcraft stamp usually guarantees a reasonably high level of quality.

mcurrier79

I called MSD. The difference is 3/8" or 3/4". It's the measurement between the flywheel and the outside of the bell housing where the starter bolts to.

mcurrier79

Ended up buying a Motorcraft direct from Ford (no new available anymore, just rebuilds). None of the parts places around here had one in store and would have cost just as much to have it delivered tomorrow as getting it from Ford today.

The MSD had a 1yr warranty and stated something about 10,000 starts. The Motorcraft had a 2yr warranty and stated something like 20,000 starts (18yrs with 3 starts a day).

My starter looks to be original and is 25yrs old so just went with it. If it's not enough to turn over the 351w when I get done rebuilding it then I'll worry about the MSD at that time.

Steve83

If the reman starter doesn't crank the engine, then it was never the starter to begin with. But the Gallagher test is a good indicator that you diagnosed it correctly.

In any case, I recommend you take a close look at the battery terminals to see if any of the conditions described in the captions of this photo album apply:


(phone app link)

It's also worth checking the OTHER end of each heavy cable, to make sure you're getting good contact at each one.


(phone app link)

The block ground doesn't actually give you a direct connection to the starter, so make sure the bellhousing/shim plate surfaces are clean, too. Every joint in the path from battery post to starter needs to be clean & shiny.


(phone app link)

The alternator works better that way, too.


(phone app link)

mcurrier79

I changed it tonight. Starts no problem now. I did have to change the eyelet connector on the control wire to a spade but that didn’t take but a minute. I also had the local parts store test the alternator after I replaced it. The gear was "floating" up and down while it was engaged.