Back story…..My truck spun a bearing when my mom was pulling a trailer to Tennessee. Some shop in Tampa fl towed it for her to their location. Said they could fix it. They swapped the engine and that engine also caught fire and blew up. They gave the truck back to me with the swapped engine not the original. Blocked my number and wiped they’re hands with the whole thing. One year later I had someone build the engine completely stock. Put it back in and now the thing runs terrible and I have done everything to make it run like new but keep failing. It bucks under load/cruising and misfires inconsistent through the RPMs. It starts right away and likes cold temps but not warm. Sometimes it seems to work everything out and idle/run fine for a minute then throws a fit and runs crappy. Btw I did do a EGR/ smog delete. Heads blocked, egr plate on, lower intake exhaust tube capped, sensor to egr valve is unplugged and vacuum at solenoid is capped but is still plugged in.

The truck
1993 f150 xlt 5.0 E4od

The swapped engine
RF-E7TE- 8059Replaced after swap
Distributor

IAC

EGR vacuum solenoid

ECT sensor

Air density sensor/ temp sensor

ICM

Ignition coil

Spark plugs

Wires

Injectors

water pump



Checked/trouble shooted



Fuel pressure 35 and holding

Timing 12 BTDC

Base idle

Grounds

PCV valve

codes
EGR solenoid
rich lambda bank 1
knock sensor
engine speed low

does someone want to buy this thing because I’m pulling my hair.

 

I’m beginning to think that the fact that the 1993 f150 5.0 was a roller motor and the 1989 5.0 swapped into the truck is not a roller motor is effectively changing my vacuum overall and making my ECM and MAP throw a fit. If that’s the problem what is my solution?

 

While you are likely correct about the years of engine being a roller or not, it isn't going to affect your vacuum. Just make sure that all of the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly and there are no leaks.

I understand the smog delete but would have kept the EGR system functioning correctly.

You need to get a set of Helm's manuals for your model year and go thru each of the engine's systems. Check the codes and then follow each troubleshooting step for part functions.

 

ecm is pretty tied to the motor, for optimum operation. I would verify you have the correct ECM for the motor in the truck.

Then start some logical troubleshooting. I would check the valve train for proper set up when cold, and then a good solid adjustment once warmed up. I would not trust work done by others to be correct. Could be something simple like timing, firing order or wires.

As Slow mentions get a good book and understand how the engine works, what is required for it to run well and so on.

 

Honestly the book trouble shooting method isn’t worth the engine and management system lol. I love ford but this 5.0 ECM SD system is ****. I’m either going to do a full blown LS swap with a Holley terminator x EFI system. or try and fix this with a MAF sensor swap. What I do know is my ECM is for a 1993 engine and the engine swapped in is a 1989. Would it help if I just put a MAP sensor for a 1989 truck in, if I do swap the 1989 ECM into the truck isn’t the ICM on the distributor for that year? Mine in my truck is remote because the original motor and dizzy is from a 1993. and maybe that will correct the misfire and install the egr system back on? All vacuum is correct. All sensors are new.

 

Got under the truck, catalytic converters are glowing cherries, and is only running rough while driving after it gets warm. I think that is the cruising around rough symptoms I’m having. Looks like they are coming off tomorrow. The rough idle I believe is my EGR delete. I’m hoping after these two modifications I might be back in business. I might check the valve lash just in case the overlap is jacked up and lash is wrong. Also I checked an empty sensor I had coming off of the wiring loom that comes out of the main harness and hangs near the power steering pump. The spout connector that comes off of EEC box fits perfectly in it but the spout also fits perfectly in the original spot that is connected to the harness at the EEC box. Did the spout connector plug in location change In the f150s from 1989 to 1993? Or is this plug for some power steering setup I don’t have. I don’t know why ford would allow the spout to plug in the same way a power steering plug would?

 

I just put a 1990 302 in my 94. All I did was reroute(swapped injectors 3-5 & 4-7). Runs like a top

 

He probably figured something out a few months ago.