Engine help!
It's a Canadian thing eh!
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,539
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From: Ontario, living across a hay field
Unhooking the battery will clear the codes or unhooking the jumper wire if you are doing it that method.
Last edited by sylver91; Aug 7, 2013 at 10:25 PM.
November 2011 TOTM Winner
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 75
From: Dallas area
November 2011 TOTM Winner
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 75
From: Dallas area
I also had problems with my air injection and found the vacuum line running behind the head to have holes worn into it from chafing.
From Google:
The only components in the Secondary Air Injection system that the ECU talks to are the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) and TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) solenoids. I think these solenoids are mounted on a bracket on the LH side of the upper inlet manifold. You should see them sitting probably together on the same bracket, with small vacuum hoses (1/4" dia) running from them to the TAB and TAD valves which are attached by rubber hoses to a separate 1/2" dia manifold running across the back of the engine, attached to the back of each cylinder head - if you disconnect the solenoids, check for VPWR (Vehicle Power) with key on/engine off - should be 10.5v or greater at connector. If not, check wiring for corrosion/continuity. Also, check resistance across terminals of solenoids - should be 51-108 ohms. If not, replace solenoid. If all is well with solenoids and wiring, the ECU could be at fault.
From Google:
The only components in the Secondary Air Injection system that the ECU talks to are the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) and TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) solenoids. I think these solenoids are mounted on a bracket on the LH side of the upper inlet manifold. You should see them sitting probably together on the same bracket, with small vacuum hoses (1/4" dia) running from them to the TAB and TAD valves which are attached by rubber hoses to a separate 1/2" dia manifold running across the back of the engine, attached to the back of each cylinder head - if you disconnect the solenoids, check for VPWR (Vehicle Power) with key on/engine off - should be 10.5v or greater at connector. If not, check wiring for corrosion/continuity. Also, check resistance across terminals of solenoids - should be 51-108 ohms. If not, replace solenoid. If all is well with solenoids and wiring, the ECU could be at fault.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 311
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Thanks for all your help guys! I finally got it to pass the Inspection I just did it when it was really hot. Everything was way below the spec. As for my next project I'm going to work on this secondary air thing.
November 2011 TOTM Winner
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 75
From: Dallas area
That's what I'm talking about!! Good Job..
You'll see the 2 solenoids mounted on a bracket up near the head. As I said, you have to get up there and lay on top of the engine and look down behind the heads and inspect the vacuum lines really good back there. Its a pia, but pretty sure you'll find a bad line.
You'll see the 2 solenoids mounted on a bracket up near the head. As I said, you have to get up there and lay on top of the engine and look down behind the heads and inspect the vacuum lines really good back there. Its a pia, but pretty sure you'll find a bad line.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 311
Likes: 2
That's what I'm talking about!! Good Job..
You'll see the 2 solenoids mounted on a bracket up near the head. As I said, you have to get up there and lay on top of the engine and look down behind the heads and inspect the vacuum lines really good back there. Its a pia, but pretty sure you'll find a bad line.
You'll see the 2 solenoids mounted on a bracket up near the head. As I said, you have to get up there and lay on top of the engine and look down behind the heads and inspect the vacuum lines really good back there. Its a pia, but pretty sure you'll find a bad line.