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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:01 PM
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Danny Bost's Avatar
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Default Engine dies when warm

I have a 1994 F150 4X4 with a 5.0. It starts and runs good when cold, but once it warms up it dies and will not restart. It is getting spark per my in line spark tester, and you can hear the fuel pump come on and pressure up. The codes I am getting are 539, voltage at PCM pin 10, 565, canister purge solenoid circut failure, 157, MAF low voltage, and 639, TSS circut failure. Would any of these cause this problem? I have looked through the forum, but I have not found the answer. Thanks for the help
Danny
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 06:34 PM
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okc lube man's Avatar
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Hello! I am sure by now you have your truck going, if however you don't, I have been going through similar issues on a 91'. If you respond I will post what I have done and the outcome.
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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Actually, I just parked it out back and have not touched it much. I would appreciate any advice you have.
Thanks Danny
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 05:39 PM
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Does it idle surge? And can you keep it running by giving it gas?
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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First let me clear the deck! I am not a mechanic, I am an electrician. I took a course in diesel mech, about 30 years ago. I have worked on helicopters in the marine corps.

I got this truck about 4 years ago. It was in pretty rough shape all over and pretty much still is.

The truck would always start, however most of the time you had to floor it. During this time the front pump did not work, so I replaced it. I talk to someone about the way it started and the said pump or fpr. I have not used a gauge yet. It is old, so why not replace the part. After the fpr, then began the fun!

Will not start or dies after it gets warm (actually the dying started later). I am thinking electrical. After all it is getting fuel because it starts and runs, and by gosh it has to be getting air, even if it did have a vacuum leak, it should still run even though it might be rough. So I battery is good, I pull starter, it checks bad. So I replace.
I cannot read codes. I pull computer, and find a few leaking capacitors, so it gets replaced.

I could spend a lot more money to a shop and get a lot less parts, so lets keep going.

I can read the codes now but it still does the same. Since I have been following this and other forums, because surely others have had this same issue. Needless to say I have replaced all of the ignition. It still does the same. Last thing since it does this when it gets the temp up, I change the ect. Starts right, I run it for a long while and shut it off. It starts right back up.

Now to the fuel. I read somewhere that a fellow was told by a ford tech that if you replace one fuel pump, and that pump quits working, that you need to replace the other pump, because apparently, the respectfully regulate pressure for the other pump. I don't know. However this guy said he replaced the other pump and it has been working perfectly. This will be my next project. However it is likely that the pump I replaced could be bad.

Computers, one little sensor input apparently can make it all jacked up. Who would have thought an ect?
I know that this is my opinion, however I have seen vehicles with a blown head gasket still run, so I do not see an air related issue causing a vehicle to not start after it gets warm, it might run like crap but.....
A bad injector, it should still run. newer vehicles with individual coils, one goes bad, it will still run.

As an electrician, my mindset is that there should not be a wire related issue unless someone has been doing things they shouldn't. So when it quits working, it is either the light switch, the receptacle, the bulb, or a breaker, rarely the wiring. So with the vehicle I guess it would be the switch, the sensor, pump, the starter, the alternator, or the computer.

I hope things work out with you truck.

Mike.
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 09:27 AM
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Usually dying when warm is a symptom of a failing ignition coil or PIP sensor, you can test the PIP with an led test light, not sure on coil. Personally I would replace the coil regardless if it looks original, they are fairly cheap and only 4 tiny screws that are easy access, that is if the PIP passes the test. You may have to google testing the PIP as I don't remember specifics right off hand.
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