Thanks for your information Aktech, greatly appreciated. Looks like a breakout box is the tool I'm gonna need to use to find my problem.

 

Let me see if I can find it. I was rushing out the door when I found the info so I`ll look more Saturday.

 

I also got the ohms spec on the mlp.

 

Do you know how to resize a pdf file?

 

https://www.f150forum.com/attachment...1&d=1364056279
Here are your pin #`s. You may not need the breakout box.

 

Thanks again for your help Aktech, I've been gone for a couple of days or I would have replied sooner. I'm gonna take out the EEC-IV module and check it out, the only thing left I know to do. I have tried TWO different brand new MLP sensors and the trouble codes 654 and 634 keeping coming back. They are the only two codes I get. I checked the harness connector at the MLPS and I get 4.9 volts between pin 30 and 46. So I'm thinking that the MLPS (tried 2 new ones) must be OK, and the wiring harness must be OK since I get 4.9 volts going to the MLPS. But the trouble codes 654 and 634 will not go away, transmission stays in " limp-mode". I don't know of anything else that would cause this condition except maybe an "internal open" in the EEC-IV. I noticed on my EEC there's a remanufactured sticker, so it has been replaced before. Maybe it went bad again, or someone put the wrong one in it to start with. The sticker is faded and "remanufactured" is the only info that I can read. Got the Haynes' manual for it and I'm gonna test the EEC general power and ground checks for it later today, and see what I get on that.

 

Well I finally got my transmission shifting correctly, thank goodness! I have been racking my brain trying to figure it out. Turns out that the first new MLP sensor that I bought was bad to start with, thinking it was OK (being brand new). So I checked out everything else that would have anything to do with it, and couldn't find anything wrong. I decided to try another new sensor and at first it didn't work either. Then I remembered that I didn't reset the EEC before installing the second sensor. I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight, then I installed the second new sensor, adjusted it to the neutral mark, hooked up the battery and took off down the road to test it and it shifted out just like a new truck!.... Tested the first sensor that I bought and the ohm readings for each gear position were actually a little lower than the range given in the repair manual, not much lower but still lower than the low end of the range given, it's funny how just a few ohms of resistance can make such a big difference!