Clutch pedal bushing, is this a lot of play?
#1
Clutch pedal bushing, is this a lot of play?
Hey guys, I love my F150, it's fun and it just keeps going and going, but boy do I hate the master/slave cylinder hydraulic clutch set up, parts are expensive and it's obnoxious to try and bleed. Anyways my truck has recently received a new slave cylinder, master cylinder, hydraulic line, and clutch. I also successfully bled it in the last 4 months and it has been working great up until recently. In the beginning, first and reverse were getting difficult to engage, and now all gears are feeling stubborn. I did notice some play in clutch pedal bushing, and I was wondering if any of you have seen this in relation to hard shifting. Here is a link to a quick vid.
I don't like working under the dash because it hurts my everything to get in there, so I suppose I put more effort than most into making a forum post about such a small problem hehe.
Thanks for the help
Oh almost forgot, I measured the throwout bearing movement and found it was about 9mm, the service manual says it should be at least 10.8mm.
I don't like working under the dash because it hurts my everything to get in there, so I suppose I put more effort than most into making a forum post about such a small problem hehe.
Thanks for the help
Oh almost forgot, I measured the throwout bearing movement and found it was about 9mm, the service manual says it should be at least 10.8mm.
Last edited by AllFordsGuy; 08-15-2015 at 05:50 PM. Reason: additional info
#3
Senior Member
Yep, that's what's causing the hard shifting. The clutch isn't fully disengaging. Check out the LMC catalog. It shows the bushings you need.
Last edited by Crownman; 08-20-2015 at 12:00 PM.
#4
Clutch arm/master cylinder rod eye bushing
I had the same issue as the op. I was able, within 2 minutes of purchasing Dorman #14041 clutch lever linkage bushing assortment for around $6 from most auto parts stores, to fix this loose linkage in the store parking lot. Use the plastic one with 4 clip arms. The other rubber ones are not used.
As learned from other threads here, as long as the clutch lever arm pin metal and the eye hole of the master push rod metal are not severely worn away do to the metal to metal contact since the nylon bushing isn't fully present... Just pull off the master rod eye from the clutch arm pin, remove old bushing, replace with new bushing with clip side facing passenger into rod eye, then push rod eye with new bushing inside of it onto the lever pin. The 4 clips should snap onto the pin. The shifting instantly was corrected. No grinding gears. No hard shifts.
As learned from other threads here, as long as the clutch lever arm pin metal and the eye hole of the master push rod metal are not severely worn away do to the metal to metal contact since the nylon bushing isn't fully present... Just pull off the master rod eye from the clutch arm pin, remove old bushing, replace with new bushing with clip side facing passenger into rod eye, then push rod eye with new bushing inside of it onto the lever pin. The 4 clips should snap onto the pin. The shifting instantly was corrected. No grinding gears. No hard shifts.
#5
#6
Looks quick. Do you still have a plastic bushing in there? Wouldn't there still be wiggle room within the eyelet without the bushing? It seems that little amount of wiggle room, in my case, can tip the scale on whether it shifts smoothly or not.
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#8
Formerly "the_breeze"
I did about the same thing the other day. I cut the 4 arms off of the bushing, bushing is still there so there is no wiggle. I took an aluminum washer, cut it so it was like a "C" then used channel locks to close it is on the inside of the lip of the shaft. That took care of MOST of my rough shifting issue. I'M still having trouble shifting into first and reverse unless the truck is rolling. Any other ideas on this?