Clutch?
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Mista_Breeze (11-18-2014)
#22
Formerly "the_breeze"
Thread Starter
Okay, well are there any good brands to look for or bad ones to watch out for? I don't believe motorcraft makes them anymore. Also I've seen listed a couple of places either a 10 inch disk or 11 inch disk. What does that mean and what would my truck have?
#23
Senior Member
I've always put in the 11" clutch. Unless you have a smaller bell housing, the 11" will work just fine. It gives more surface area to grab onto. I'm sure the 10" will work fine, I just wanted more area for friction. Also, look for the warranty on the clutch. Just because it's cheap doesn't mean that it's a bad clutch. Good luck.
On a side note, have you had the top of your transmission open at all? You said you had problems going into gear. Just wondering if you've checked the forks.
On a side note, have you had the top of your transmission open at all? You said you had problems going into gear. Just wondering if you've checked the forks.
The following users liked this post:
Mista_Breeze (11-18-2014)
The following users liked this post:
Mista_Breeze (11-18-2014)
#25
Senior Member
Lmao. "These go to 11" Now that's funny.
#26
Formerly "the_breeze"
Thread Starter
Okay thanks guys. And no I haven't had the transmission down yet. And I don't think it'd be a fork because as long as I shift perfect, with the engine at the perfect speed it goes into gear fine. I have the most trouble when I'm sitting perfectly still. If I'm rolling a hair forward or backwards I can get it in "okay"
#27
Senior Member
As an exapmle...
I worked on a truck with the same issue you're having. Brand new master & slave. No air in the system, still had the issue. All the parts looked ok.
Turned out that the Pressure plate fingers had worn over the years and didn't stick out as far from the plate as they did stock, and the throwout bearing was a little worn. This caused a larger gap betweeen the two parts. Also the shift fork was worn and had bent very slightly. That caused even more play. So when I added up just how much play that those things added it was enough to cause the pressure plate to not fully disengage. Thus, the hard shifting.
Also, make sure the shifter bushing doesn't have too much play in it.
#28
Formerly "the_breeze"
Thread Starter
If you shift perfect and and have the right engine speed you can shift and it'll go in fine without even using the clutch. So that doesn't rule out the clutch fork. As an exapmle... I worked on a truck with the same issue you're having. Brand new master & slave. No air in the system, still had the issue. All the parts looked ok. Turned out that the Pressure plate fingers had worn over the years and didn't stick out as far from the plate as they did stock, and the throwout bearing was a little worn. This caused a larger gap betweeen the two parts. Also the shift fork was worn and had bent very slightly. That caused even more play. So when I added up just how much play that those things added it was enough to cause the pressure plate to not fully disengage. Thus, the hard shifting. Also, make sure the shifter bushing doesn't have too much play in it.
#30
Formerly "the_breeze"
Thread Starter
Yeah, but it's winter now. It's cold and miserable, and my truck still runs and drives fine. It's just a bit irritating at times. It's been this way for a while, so I figure I'll just deal with it for the time being.