95 f150 Stalling HELP
95 f150 4.9L 2WD E4OD
Bought my truck about 6 months ago from my uncle(been in the family since 98) drove fine for about a month and a half until my fuel send line began leaking. No biggie I replaced the line and shortly after my battery light came in and stayed on. Replaced battery and alternator. Shortly after replaceing alternator the truck began to stall and idle rough. Looking under the hood i found a broke knock sensor. I replaced that and a few other parts(listed below). I also blocked off the egr at this point. I’ve put alot of parts into it and still have no improvement. The truck has also started cutting out while cruising at speed now. No ryme or reason as to when it will die, it does it warm and cold dry or wet. Just beginning my work on cars but it seems like i’ll be leaning quicky with this one! Any ideas appreciated.
parts replaced
IAC
ICM
DIST CAP
DIST
ROTOR
PLUGS
WIRES
ALTERNATOR
PCM
PCM RELAY
FUEL PUMP RELAY
FUEL FILTER
AIR FILTER
TPS
COIL
MAP SENSOR
FUEL PRESSURE REG TESTS GOOD
Bought my truck about 6 months ago from my uncle(been in the family since 98) drove fine for about a month and a half until my fuel send line began leaking. No biggie I replaced the line and shortly after my battery light came in and stayed on. Replaced battery and alternator. Shortly after replaceing alternator the truck began to stall and idle rough. Looking under the hood i found a broke knock sensor. I replaced that and a few other parts(listed below). I also blocked off the egr at this point. I’ve put alot of parts into it and still have no improvement. The truck has also started cutting out while cruising at speed now. No ryme or reason as to when it will die, it does it warm and cold dry or wet. Just beginning my work on cars but it seems like i’ll be leaning quicky with this one! Any ideas appreciated.
parts replaced
IAC
ICM
DIST CAP
DIST
ROTOR
PLUGS
WIRES
ALTERNATOR
PCM
PCM RELAY
FUEL PUMP RELAY
FUEL FILTER
AIR FILTER
TPS
COIL
MAP SENSOR
FUEL PRESSURE REG TESTS GOOD
Last edited by Spikeford; Jan 21, 2023 at 10:07 PM.
Blindly replacing parts is a bad idea. Many new parts are bad right out of the box, so you very well could be making more problems. Retest all of the sensors that you replaced, and check fuel pressure and ignition timing as a start.
I understand that alot of times the newer parts are bad, especially from the big parts stores. Everything i replaced were motorcraft parts from my uncle’s other truck that ran with the exception of the alt. Which is a rebuild bosch. I’m confident the parts that i’ve put in are good. I’ll start testing things again in the morning to be sure though. Fuel pressure is 39 psi at idle. And ignition was set at 10 below tdc with the spout pulled. My uncle was a tech for ford back when these trucks were new, hes been a huge help but even he seems stumped. I really just want my truck back.
You should put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)

Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.What are you calling a "send line"? Fuel lines don't just start leaking - something has to puncture or sever them. What exactly happened to yours? Do you still have it? Post pics.With what? From where?Why (for EACH one)? Warning lights (including the CEL) do NOT mean parts should be replaced. Did you test either before replacement? Did you test either AFTER replacement?
Again: what broke it? They don't just break over time. And the KS can't cause ANY running issue.Why? You should restore it to proper functionality ASAP.That's because parts replacement is NOT diagnosis or repair, and is only likely to make it run WORSE, as you disturb more things on your antique vehicle. If you want them to run right, follow the maintenance schedule using only top-quality parts & fluids according to published procedures. If you plan to keep & drive it, you should get a Haynes manual, and (eventually) read it cover-to-cover. Follow the links on this page:
(click this text)

For ANY electrical problem (including any DTC or driveability issue), always begin at the battery terminals. Read all of this page:
(click this text)
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.What are you calling a "send line"? Fuel lines don't just start leaking - something has to puncture or sever them. What exactly happened to yours? Do you still have it? Post pics.With what? From where?Why (for EACH one)? Warning lights (including the CEL) do NOT mean parts should be replaced. Did you test either before replacement? Did you test either AFTER replacement?
(click this text)
For ANY electrical problem (including any DTC or driveability issue), always begin at the battery terminals. Read all of this page:
(click this text)





