88 f150 351 no start
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
88 f150 351 no start
Literally haven’t even unloaded the truck off the trailer.
Just bought a pretty solid 88 supercab 4x4. It’s a 351 and c6. Guy had it for about a month.
He put tires, whole front suspension rebuild, battery, etc on it. It was driving great and started missing and finally died.
He decided to sell and I jumped.
So it cranks great and the tach moves. It tries to start but will not hold an idle. Acts like it’s starving for fuel.
Where to start? Is there a likely culprit?
Just bought a pretty solid 88 supercab 4x4. It’s a 351 and c6. Guy had it for about a month.
He put tires, whole front suspension rebuild, battery, etc on it. It was driving great and started missing and finally died.
He decided to sell and I jumped.
So it cranks great and the tach moves. It tries to start but will not hold an idle. Acts like it’s starving for fuel.
Where to start? Is there a likely culprit?
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Fuel pressure at the rail is 5lbs. Pumps in the tanks run with the selector switch koeo.
I’ve pulled the high pressure pump and bench tested. It spins up fine. Measures 4ohms across the terminals. Not sure if that’s in range.
But- I think the selector valve is bad. The guy only ran the rear tank. I found someone has crimped off the front tank high pressure line.
I pulled the selector assy and and took it apart.
The lower canister had a small o ring in the bottom. After pulling the top cap and diaphragm, I found the valves were stuck. Wd40 freed them up.
So- I think I’m going to buy a single tank valve and see if that’s my problem. If so, I’ll eliminate the front tank and later install a Bronco tank assy.
Does that sound like a good plan?
I’m assuming if the tank pumps and high pressure pump is on the same circuit. Correct?
I can hear the relay click when the in tank pumps power up. I wanted to check the mechanical parts before I jump into the rest.
The truck drove for a month by the prev owner. Then sputtered and died. So he sold it cheap.
I’ve pulled the high pressure pump and bench tested. It spins up fine. Measures 4ohms across the terminals. Not sure if that’s in range.
But- I think the selector valve is bad. The guy only ran the rear tank. I found someone has crimped off the front tank high pressure line.
I pulled the selector assy and and took it apart.
The lower canister had a small o ring in the bottom. After pulling the top cap and diaphragm, I found the valves were stuck. Wd40 freed them up.
So- I think I’m going to buy a single tank valve and see if that’s my problem. If so, I’ll eliminate the front tank and later install a Bronco tank assy.
Does that sound like a good plan?
I’m assuming if the tank pumps and high pressure pump is on the same circuit. Correct?
I can hear the relay click when the in tank pumps power up. I wanted to check the mechanical parts before I jump into the rest.
The truck drove for a month by the prev owner. Then sputtered and died. So he sold it cheap.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update:
As a test, I bought some fuel line with the factory ends. Cut them to length and used high pressure hose and clamps. Connected rear tank directly to the high pressure pump. Started it and let it run for about 10 mins.
Ordered the single tank reservoir off Amazon to do it right. $53.
Looks like I’m going to do a top end gasket change. Leaks oil from intake and valve covers.
And it was rebuilt.
But it runs. Got it cheap!
As a test, I bought some fuel line with the factory ends. Cut them to length and used high pressure hose and clamps. Connected rear tank directly to the high pressure pump. Started it and let it run for about 10 mins.
Ordered the single tank reservoir off Amazon to do it right. $53.
Looks like I’m going to do a top end gasket change. Leaks oil from intake and valve covers.
And it was rebuilt.
But it runs. Got it cheap!