4x4 Help!
Like said above, rebuild time. I would drive it until I got all of the parts as well. You'll be needing seals and a full bearing set. If you're going to all of that trouble already, might be time to take a look at regearing or at least replacing the gears you have now in the front. I would also rebuild the rear end since your truck will be down anyways. That way you have a fresh axle set and won't have to worry about it.
You should be able to look on your rear end or front end for a little metal tag. I know they stopped doing that at some point, but not sure when. You can also look on your door sticker for the factory gear and drivetrain. Once you have that information it should be fairly easy to get a parts diagram for each one. Then you just have to look up any updated part numbers via your favorite parts store.
I'm a fan of Timkin bearings. I've always had good luck with them. Others might chime in with what they like. Don't cheap out on these parts as it can come back to bite you in the ***. If you can get parts with a lifetime warranty, do it. It might be more expensive in the beginning, but can save you loads of money down the line if you have to replace parts for whatever reason.
Don't use a punch/drift and hammer to seat seals. If you have access to any type of lathe or mill, make a seal driver or just go buy a universal one. It will save you a headache from damaging a brand new seal. I've learned this one the hard way several times. Lol.
Are you planning on having a shop do all of the labor after you get parts?
I'm a fan of Timkin bearings. I've always had good luck with them. Others might chime in with what they like. Don't cheap out on these parts as it can come back to bite you in the ***. If you can get parts with a lifetime warranty, do it. It might be more expensive in the beginning, but can save you loads of money down the line if you have to replace parts for whatever reason.
Don't use a punch/drift and hammer to seat seals. If you have access to any type of lathe or mill, make a seal driver or just go buy a universal one. It will save you a headache from damaging a brand new seal. I've learned this one the hard way several times. Lol.
Are you planning on having a shop do all of the labor after you get parts?
You should be able to look on your rear end or front end for a little metal tag. I know they stopped doing that at some point, but not sure when. You can also look on your door sticker for the factory gear and drivetrain. Once you have that information it should be fairly easy to get a parts diagram for each one. Then you just have to look up any updated part numbers via your favorite parts store.
I'm a fan of Timkin bearings. I've always had good luck with them. Others might chime in with what they like. Don't cheap out on these parts as it can come back to bite you in the ***. If you can get parts with a lifetime warranty, do it. It might be more expensive in the beginning, but can save you loads of money down the line if you have to replace parts for whatever reason.
Don't use a punch/drift and hammer to seat seals. If you have access to any type of lathe or mill, make a seal driver or just go buy a universal one. It will save you a headache from damaging a brand new seal. I've learned this one the hard way several times. Lol.
Are you planning on having a shop do all of the labor after you get parts?
I'm a fan of Timkin bearings. I've always had good luck with them. Others might chime in with what they like. Don't cheap out on these parts as it can come back to bite you in the ***. If you can get parts with a lifetime warranty, do it. It might be more expensive in the beginning, but can save you loads of money down the line if you have to replace parts for whatever reason.
Don't use a punch/drift and hammer to seat seals. If you have access to any type of lathe or mill, make a seal driver or just go buy a universal one. It will save you a headache from damaging a brand new seal. I've learned this one the hard way several times. Lol.
Are you planning on having a shop do all of the labor after you get parts?
I'm not sure on the late 80's rear ends, but my 75 and my 73 were pressed bearing on the rear axles shafts. They were both 2WD so no help there. Those rear ends were also kept on with a retaining seal no a c-clip like some of the modern rear ends. I'll look into my books a little more and see if I can refresh my memory a bit more.
Not sure on gear sets. When i did mine (many many moons ago) i replaced my 3rd member. I had a 31 spline rear end so it was more expensive at the time. I'm pretty sure all i had into the bearings and seals was about $40. But again, it was over 15 years ago. All the others I've ever worked on were while i was a mechanic for the DOD. They overpay for everything.
Bearings for the rear axles are 10-20 a piece depending on brand. The rear seals are 3-10 a piece. The differential assemblies i would have a professional do. You don't want to mess that up. Gear sets aren't exactly cheap, and neither are differential assemblies (carrier assemblies). There's a lot of YouTube videos on how to set them up, but your gonna need some more tools.

