4 wheel drive trouble shoot question....
02-25-2013, 11:04 PM
#12
Sounds good.... We don't have an autozone where I'm at but O'reilys hopefully has some.... Don't need anything extreme just wanna pull in my garage without spinning tires....
02-25-2013, 11:06 PM
#13
just looked on autozone.com. they have hubs ($60 plain or $85 stainless) special order. conversion kit is $40 special order. dont know if you have autozone there but they can usually have most parts with in 2 days. go by the store and order in next couple days and have them by the weekend.
03-01-2013, 11:41 AM
#14
Picked up my lockouts today... It's the wife's birthday so it has to wait until tomorrow but here is a little info for ya.... I was unsure of the diagnosis and took it to a shop that had a special going on $35 to inspect and identify problems... I had them check it out and they confirmed it was the hubs... The guy gave me an estimate to fix it..... $904.32 I thought ok he is putting in automatic hubs... Nope it was manual hubs!!!. Just wanted to put it out there for anyone else thinking about taking their shop to the shop.... Only extra thing they were gonna do is repack the wheel bearings...
03-01-2013, 09:09 PM
#18
It would be wise. But you have to pull the caliper, hub, and rotor. I didn't the first time. Second I re packed them and third I replaced them. I've tore it apart a couple times.
03-01-2013, 09:19 PM
#19
Automatic Locking Hubs
NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.
Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.
Road Test
When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.
Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.
NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.
Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.
Road Test
When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.
Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.
Last edited by RLXXI; 03-01-2013 at 09:26 PM.