WolfgangFox

I need to replace my oil pan gasket, and wanted to use the felpro. However, I've found a little conflicting information and wanted to see what you guys thought that have done this.

Felpro is saying the correct part# is: OS 34506 R
ALL of the parts houses except advance auto online are saying the correct part# is: OS 30214 T (Summit, oreilly's, napa, etc)
A link to a popular replacement thread on Ford Truck Enthusiasts forums: ("https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...asket-fix.html") where they are all pointing to the part # of OS 30214 T.

Felpro is stating the OS 30214 T is for the old windsor engines, not the newer ones. The one felpro is recommending is really hard to find. The one that the forums are stating to use is found everywhere.

To the guys that have replaced theirs, which one did you use?

-Pat

Steve83

Why? All leaks run down to the lip of the oil pan, and collect there - that DOESN'T mean the leak is FROM the pan gasket. Always follow a leak forward & up to its source.Why?They're interchangeable, and all 351W & 5.8L engines were made at the Windsor engine plant. The one that ends with "T" is probably nitrile rubber; the one that ends with "R" is rubber (possibly just vulcanized synthetic rubber). But the original is silicone rubber, and shaped like the one FelPro recommends:


(phone app link)The original '96 pan gasket. It's reusable. And it was probably originally supplied by Mahle, like the valve cover gaskets (which I know are Mahle). Read this & the NEXT several captions:


(phone app link)

WolfgangFox

I'll answer your questions first, then give you a little backstory.

Why do I think I need to change the oilpan gasket: I went to a local mechanic today, they did a "free" oil check, but they primarily do oil changes, flushes, things like that. He looked up underneath the car, stated it was dripping from the oil pan gasket, however that meant the engine needed to be pulled and he recommended a shop up the street. I also read a lot of comments that if the oil pan gasket is original, it's most likely beatup (torn, ripped, leaking) especially with a truck with almost 200k on it.

Why do I think I need the felpro: I guess to me that's the manufacturer a lot of the F150 community recommends and has used before. The post I linked explained how to do the change without lifting out the engine, and I thought that particular manufacturer made the gasket in such a way so it can be pulled over the pan, with the engine still on the mounts. It also seemed like a job I could possibly attempt. It didn't occur to me the gasket could be re-used. I guess I just figured if the gasket was leaking, it was damaged somehow and needed to be replaced?

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Backstory: I am a novice when it comes to car repair. I've never tackled anything remotely close to changing an oil pan gasket, lifting out an engine, or even doing any top engine work, let alone inside. So what I usually do is anything of that nature, I'll take to a reputable repair shop to repair for me. Things like changing alternators, serpentine belts, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing battery terminals, etc I can do. I've given the local oil change shop quite a bit of my business, and while they aren't going to get any business from the oil pan gasket change, I believed since I was a good customer of theirs, I could trust them the most. I don't have any local friends that could help, while I'd love to meet some people and learn how to do these repairs that way.
I restore pinball machines and arcade games, and have been for the past 29 years. I've been self taught, and had always thought car repair wouldn't be that difficult for me to learn either, it just requires a lot of tools.
I love these generation of trucks, but am a little concerned that in the beginning of this trucks life it was cared for, however over the last year and a half, not only was it not cared for, I'm a bit concerned it was almost destroyed by the abuse it took (hence my cleaning the undercarriage and engine bay). I thought, at one point, it may have been submerged in muddy water as it was so dirty underneath and in the engine bay.

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I appreciate the asking of Why, as it causes me to think about the situation a little more. I'm going to invest in some car ramps, so I can easily get underneath the engine (I'm terrified of jack stands and get quite claustrophobic underneath there) and take your suggestion and actually try to figure out for myself exactly where this is coming from. I thought there would be a difference in the size and layout of the Windsor blocks and didn't understand they were the same when it came to oil pan gaskets.

-Pat

Steve83

The guy who said it needed a pan gasket doesn't stand to profit - but he also doesn't stand to lose anything if he guessed wrong. And the fact that he only does oil changes says he's not particularly skilled at diagnosing problems. So I wouldn't reflexively trust his reflexive guess that the oil on the pan gasket is coming from the pan gasket. Wash the engine a few times, and then start checking thoroughly (with a light & mirror, or an endoscope) after each drive so you can find the real leak point. When you think you've found it, wash that spot again & watch it while the engine is running to be sure.

Miles don't tear up a pan gasket. Neither does neglect or abuse. Especially a modern rubber one installed at the factory. Changing it (especially the way you're planning) is more likely to create new leaks than to have any effect on the original leak. I've changed several, and I'll never do a 5.0L/5.8L in-chassis again. It's impossible to get a good seal because you'll be so frustrated fighting the gasket into place that you won't care any more, and you can't actually see anything that you need to inspect anyway. It's also more work & takes longer to barely lift it than to just pull it out. But again - no one has actually found where the leak is yet, so there's no reason to even think about changing the pan gasket yet.

If you end up changing the pan gasket (or having it changed), be prepared to find other things that need attention. Particularly: bore plugs (abuse & neglect of the coolant causes them to rust out), engine mounts (I've never worked on one of these trucks and found both mounts intact), exhaust leaks (the manifolds commonly warp & crack, sometimes breaking the bolts), and coolant leaks (often from the intake manifold gaskets &/or water pump/timing cover gaskets).
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...tnum=F4TZ6710A
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Ext...uctinfo/10501/
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/21191/71870-2
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1134727

There's nothing special about that FelPro gasket - it's exactly as difficult to pull between the pan & block as any other. And it's exactly as easy as the others to install the way Ford recommends:


(phone app link)

You're right that you can probably do all this work yourself, but it doesn't require as many tools as you think. Yes, there are thousands of tools available, but they're not required for a DIY'er. The first time I pulled & rebuilt my own engine alone, I used a rope & a tree as an engine hoist. And I only had a Haynes manual & a few cheap tools (maybe 30 sockets, 2 ratchets, some screwdrivers & pliers). It started & idled the first try, even though I forgot to connect the throttle cable. So it CAN be done, if you're patient & meticulous. But you definitely need the Haynes manual, at a minimum - paying for all these repairs & maintenance will cost more than the truck is worth.


(phone app link)

BLDTruth

The Felpro with the R in the part number is the one you want.

100% agreed with Steve on pulling the engine to do a pan gasket. Also I would 100% want to verify that it is the pan gasket before attempting to change it - Make sure it isn't coming from the front or rear main seals, which are much more likely to fail than the pan gasket, in my opinion.

I'm 40 years old, started working on my truck about 5 years ago, when the shop told me I needed ball joints and quoted me over $600 to replace them. I watched a couple of youtube videos, bought some tools, borrowed some tools, rented some tools and got er dun without spending much more than $300 on tools and parts. Since then I just collected tools as I needed to do the jobs I needed to do. Now I have a collection of tools worth at least $2-3K that otherwise would have been in the hands of some guy I don't know who doesn't love my truck like I do.

So would you rather pay some guy $800 to change your oil pan gasket? Or would you rather get a jack, engine crane, impact gun and sockets, etc....and keep them for future jobs? I am certainly in the latter camp. But I also plan on keeping my truck (and working on it myself) as long as I am able to do it.

WolfgangFox

Thank you gentlemen for the motivational words!

I think what I've decided to do in my situation is firstly get some vehicle ramps and jack stands. I'm going to bring the ramps to a local car wash (one of the outside spray, soap and hose types) put the truck up on the ramps, and give it a good cleaning underneath front and back. I can then do the same as you suggested to really get the bottom of my engine clean in my own driveway with the jack stands as well. Honestly, that will probably push me over the edge and really diagnose this correctly (with some stupid questions I'm sure I'll ask here) and get the stuff needed to fix it.

-Pat

BLDTruth

Most of those car wash places around me are very specific about not letting you do undercarriage spraying - so you might want to visit early in the morning or late in the evening Bring along a solid de-greaser like castrol superclean or the like,

WolfgangFox

I live by Zion National Park in St. George and there are a jillion outside car wash places. Most of them, in the bays, will not let you wash off mud etc, but they have one "bay" on the side of the building that is outside, where all the local mudders go and wash their cars. There is usually 1-2 feet high of mud over the drain, but if you can get there when it's reasonably clean so you can at least drive over the drain, I assume that'd be perfect.

I guess I am washing off used motor oil with chemicals, so I'm wondering if that would be an issue for the drain, and where it drains to. Hmm....

Steve83

Before feeding the car wash, read this caption:


(phone app link)

PP is biodegradable, and Dawn is used to wash animals after oil spills, so they're pretty safe everywhere. High pressure is only necessary for thick grime & hardened mud - you'd be surprised what a few cycles of PP/Dawn & a garden hose will do.

WolfgangFox

I'll make up the concoction, and probably just use the washing suds they provide for the undercarriage. Underneath the oil pan is an absolute mess though, it's going to be nice to get that cleaned off. Thanks again. I'm off to find which bushing you recommended for the door jam and closing the door. lol saw it somewhere, now to find it again.