AR-Trvlr

Steve83

The only "complete" set of bolts you'll find will be in the JY on an identical engine. But they'll likely be in an identical condition. The best thing to do is run the bucket of bolts through a parts washer (or dump a gallon of deodorized mineral spirits into the bucket & wait a day or 3) and brush them, let them dry, then run each one across a wirewheel on a bench grinder. When they're clean, they'll probably be fine to reuse, and the best bolts you can get. Get a few magnetic tool holders, throw some newspaper over them, stick the bolts to them (thread-end-down), and paint them Ford grey, or flat or gloss black. These (which were horribly grimy & rusty inside the WP):


(phone app link)

...came out like this:


(phone app link)

These were at least as bad:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

I like:
Duplicolor Engine New Ford Gray DE1611
DupliColor Aluminum cast coat DE1650
Duplicolor Engine Clear (I forget the number)
Rustoleum low-gloss engine black 248938
Rustoleum Primer/Sealer 249321
Rustoleum Automotive flat black 252464
Rustoleum Automotive semi-gloss black 252465
Rustoleum Automotive gloss black 252462
Rustoleum High Heat Primer249340
Rustoleum High Heat Silver 7716

AR-Trvlr

Thanks. I'll give that a try. I'll still need to figure out what goes where. Know of any lists of the bolts & sizes for the different parts?

Steve83

Only on the Ford parts breakdown (software, microfiche, or books), and it's not 100% accurate. There are too many variations. If you organize your bolts by thread, head-shape, & length, and post lots of clear pics, we can probably help you get most of them figured out.

AR-Trvlr

I'll take you up on that challenge...

Steve83

1: probably alternator bracket-to-right head, but there should be 2 others (1 with larger head & thread, but same length)
2: A/C compressor-to-bracket
3: probably A/C/P/S bracket-to-left head, but there should be 1 more identical
4: intake manifold-to-left head under the coil bracket, but there's 1 more identical
5: probably intake manifold-to-left head at the front (~1/4" longer than the other manifold-to-head bolts)
6: -
7: ? doesn't ring a bell - maybe a pic showing the head marks...
8: ? looks almost like bellhousing (5/8" head), but not quite long enough
9: valve cover at the inboard F&R corners, where the wiring harness frames are press-nutted down
10: valve cover at the ouboard locations where the plug wire guides snap on
11: possibly plenum support tube-to-plenum (RHS center)
12: hard to make out, but maybe WP-to-TC or TC-to-block
13: timing cover-to-block
14: ? doesn't ring a bell - maybe a pic showing the head marks...
15: throttle body-to-plenum
16: possibly throttle cable bracket-to-plenum
17: valve cover
18: oil pan F&R corners
19: maybe TC top (behind the WP lip) to block
20: oil pan (except F&R corners)
21: fuel rail-to-intake
22: separator plate-to-bellhousing
23: torque-converter access plate-to-bellhousing
24: valve cover
25: possibly oil pump-to-block or pickup tube-to-oil pump
26: ? doesn't ring a bell - maybe a pic showing the head marks...
27: thermostat cover-to-intake
28: air pump pulley-to-pump hub
29: maybe exhaust manifold-to-head
30: starter-to-bellhousing
31: same as #8?, or maybe exhaust manifold-to-head
32: maybe EGR-to-plenum, or MLPS-to-E4OD
33: definitely body - the sharp tip is to pull a U-bolt into alignment during assembly
34: body - is the truck the same color as the paint on the head?
35: maybe EGR-to-plenum
36: probably body
37: ? doesn't ring a bell - maybe a pic showing the head marks...
38: ? doesn't ring a bell - maybe a pic showing the head marks...
39: looks like hood pull-to-lower A-pillar
40: wheelwell-to-fender or capacitor-to-coil bracket
The first biggest nut looks like engine mount-to-frame perch.
The larger-bore rusty nuts could go on the exhaust manifold stud-heads.
The four crimped 9/16" nuts are for the torque converter-to-flexplate (probably the shiny one).
The stud looks familiar, but I can't place it.
Nuts with captive star washers are for wheelwell-mounted components with integral studs.
Rusty tall hex nuts are for exhaust manifold studs-to-Y-pipe.

For the ones I couldn't ID or got wrong, it would help if you check their exact head sizes with sockets, and add that info to their post-its. Also: is the bolt too large, too small, or wrong thread to fit what I guessed. DON'T CHANGE THEIR ID (post-it) NUMBERS. Make sure you distinguish between a 10mm head and a 3/8" head; a 13mm head & a 1/2" head; 14mm & 9/16". There is no distinction between 8mm & 5/16" or 11mm & 7/16"; thus none between 16mm & 5/8" or 22mm & 7/8".

It would also help to see things that you can't put bolts with yet.

Browse from these pics to the NEXT through the rest of the albums, but pay attention to the bolts in the BACKGROUNDS of the pics:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

AR-Trvlr

Here's the bolt sizes and photos of a couple of the ??? bolts.

AR-Trvlr

Also, a few general questions if you (or anyone else) has some advice:

1) Gaskets - Should I get premium gaskets for any of the connections, and if so, which connections and which gaskets should I use?
2) Which replaceable sensors / valves / filters / etc. should I replace, and which ones can I re-use? PCV valve? O2 sensors? Oil pressure sensor? Water temp sensor? (And any advice on which brands to use or avoid?)
3) I only have 4 of the 8 fuel injectors, so I was planning on buying new. I'm seeing prices of $60/set to $60+ each. Any advice on what to get, and where to order from?
4) Any advice on sources for the missing bolts?
5) Exhaust manifold bolts vs. studs? Which is better?

In general I'd rather pay a premium to use quality parts and minimize the number of times I have to open things back up to fix something. Money is an issue, but my time is more of an issue...

Thanks for all the help.

Steve83

You forgot:Try each bolt in the location I suggested, and post a list of things that still DON'T have bolts that fit.

7: does not appear to be factory
8: how do they fit in the bellhousing? How far past it do they protrude?
14: too blurry & dirty to see the head marks; also need something in the new pics for scale, like a lug nut or spark plug
26: engine mount-to-block, or trans mount-to-extension housing?
37: maybe intake manifold or accessory-to-bracket (smog pump?)
38: does not appear to be factory; 14mm is not a typical Ford size"Premium" is a marketing term, like "OEM" & "professional". They're all meaningless, other than "we want you to pay more for this junk". Try to get ORIGINAL-brand gaskets whenever possible - they lasted >30 years, and they've been improved in that time. You'll probably pay a little more for the Ford/MotorCraft labels if you can't identify the actual O.E.M., but it's still better than getting cheap overpriced junk. The last OEM for the best valve cover gaskets was Mahle, so shop for that brand in that application. They might also have made the last OE (graphite) intake manifold gaskets, but several other name brands offer those. Look for steel-reinforced silicone or nitrile in other gaskets. I've even seen a reusable thermostat gasket recently, but I don't remember the brand.Only replace parts that are damaged or due/overdue on the maintenance schedule. Test any suspect sensors according to Haynes, or my captions. If it passes, use it regardless of age/miles/discoloration. The oil pressure switch should be converted to a true sender so the gauge will actually work, as this caption explains:


(phone app link)

NOTE that the instrument cluster must also be modified at the same time.Junkyard. I've worked on these trucks for a long time, and I have yet to find a "ruined" fuel injector, unless it was burned or crushed. The ones in my truck had to be cooked to get the gum out - they've been working perfectly for >25 years since.Junkyard.Ford/MotorCraft originals. Most of them are still available (there are at least 3 shapes). Follow the links in this caption:


(phone app link)

AR-Trvlr

Lower manifold locating pins - any idea where I can get them? I picked up the OEM manuals on CD, and the assembly process calls for using the pins to assure correct alignment of the lower intake manifold. I asked about them at my closest NAPA store, and they had no idea what I was talking about.