Steering gear
Hello all. It's been a while since I posted any progress on bringing my truck back from the dead. I received the computer for my truck last Thursday. Plugged it in and it fired up on the first try. Yay. Fixed/replaced the vacuum lines. A/C now blows air according to the selector switch. Thanks Steve 83. No cold air but that's a different problem. Going to check the freon level and go from there.
Couple of questions - 1. The steering gear box is leaking pretty bad where the pitman arm attaches to the box. I don't know if I should rebuild the gear box (no idea how difficult it is) or if I should replace it. The JY where I bought the air filter housing and intake hose and the instrument cluster has the gear box. Thing is, the "donor truck" is 2 wheel drive and it has a 5.0L with an auto transmission. Mine is a 5.8L, auto and 4X4. Would the gear box be the same?
2. I bought the cluster because the LCD screen on mine was fried. There were crispy things coming out of it. I did the speedometer swap only because my truck has an RPM section and the cluster I bought does not. Swap went well. Thing is, my speedo needle and the fuel needle are pegged to the right. Can I remove the lens and set the needles to zero or is there a problem I should be concerned about?
3. Lastly (for now) the rear fuel pump does not work. Truck runs fine using the front pump but turns off when I switch to the rear tank. Bad pump?
As always, thanks to everyone for their information and knowledge.
The journey continues...
Couple of questions - 1. The steering gear box is leaking pretty bad where the pitman arm attaches to the box. I don't know if I should rebuild the gear box (no idea how difficult it is) or if I should replace it. The JY where I bought the air filter housing and intake hose and the instrument cluster has the gear box. Thing is, the "donor truck" is 2 wheel drive and it has a 5.0L with an auto transmission. Mine is a 5.8L, auto and 4X4. Would the gear box be the same?
2. I bought the cluster because the LCD screen on mine was fried. There were crispy things coming out of it. I did the speedometer swap only because my truck has an RPM section and the cluster I bought does not. Swap went well. Thing is, my speedo needle and the fuel needle are pegged to the right. Can I remove the lens and set the needles to zero or is there a problem I should be concerned about?
3. Lastly (for now) the rear fuel pump does not work. Truck runs fine using the front pump but turns off when I switch to the rear tank. Bad pump?
As always, thanks to everyone for their information and knowledge.
The journey continues...
Last edited by ABBYSDAD; Aug 26, 2021 at 12:01 AM.
WHAT TRUCK? Put all its details into your signature.
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1. Same steering box for all '80-96 F-series & Broncos. I'd just get a good reman. The last one I bought was an ACD and it's working great.
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2. Turn the key OFF, hold down RESET on the speedo, turn key to RUN, release RESET. The needle should buzz (trying to sweep right) then sweep left. Turn the key OFF.
The fuel gauge is pegged because there's an open circuit between it & the level sender in the tank.
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3. Yes.
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1. Same steering box for all '80-96 F-series & Broncos. I'd just get a good reman. The last one I bought was an ACD and it's working great.
(click this text)
2. Turn the key OFF, hold down RESET on the speedo, turn key to RUN, release RESET. The needle should buzz (trying to sweep right) then sweep left. Turn the key OFF.
The fuel gauge is pegged because there's an open circuit between it & the level sender in the tank.
(click this text)
3. Yes.
(click this text)
The steering box from that donor truck will be the same as yours, but attempting a rebuild would be the more economical option. If the speedo and fuel gauge are pegged, it is most likely an electrical issue. Did they work on your old cluster? If not, then the vehicle speed sensor and fuel level sender would be the best pace to start diag.
And if the truck dies when switched to the rear tank, then it most likely means that the rear pump is not turning on, probably a bad pump, but you should still test it before replacing.
And if the truck dies when switched to the rear tank, then it most likely means that the rear pump is not turning on, probably a bad pump, but you should still test it before replacing.
Thanks guys. I did the reset procedure and speedo is good. Fuel gauge is not. Will have to figure that out. I don't know if they worked before as I bought the truck non-running. I do remember that the speedo was at zero and the fuel needle was at empty.
As for the truck's information on my signature, not sure what's going on. I had already input the information. My previous posts have it. I checked the signature and all the information is there. No clue. Thanks again.
The journey continues...
As for the truck's information on my signature, not sure what's going on. I had already input the information. My previous posts have it. I checked the signature and all the information is there. No clue. Thanks again.
The journey continues...






